French climbing grades.
French climbing grades 10 & 5. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. Oct 12, 2020 · What is the Highest Climbing Grade? The highest climbing grade, as of February 2020, is a 5. Jun 5, 2023 · The American Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the French climbing grades are widely recognized and used, offering a benchmark for climbers across the world to measure their skills and climb difficulty. org. Ranking Guide - Rankings explained in great detail from rockclimbing. Great Britain – The UK system is made of two sub-grades, an adjective grade and a technical grade. g. It isn’t too helpful to compare across scales, but it – Long rock sections of Grades IV and V and up to 20 meters (65 feet) of Grade VI. Jun 8, 2020 · On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which enables relatively easy comparison. However, UK traditional or ‘trad’ as well as winter climbing grades offer more information about a climb than simply how hard the climbing is. Climbers mainly use two rating systems for rope climbing, according to geographical location: FRENCH scale and YDS. That said, even with a degree of subjectivity, climbers benefit from the attempt at a universal French Climbing Grades: Like UIAA, you’ll find this grade in almost all bolted routes in France and nearby nations. This article will cover the most widely recognized scales: the Vermin Scale (V-Scale) and the Fontainebleau Scale (French Scale). Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Feb 1, 2024 · The rock climbing grade 5. Feb 20, 2023 · Climbing Grades Comparison Chart. They are for grading sport climbs and traditional climbing, but we will also cover the bouldering grades V-scale and French (Font). I climb the same grade on the moon board as my gym grades, despite having very little experience with board climbing. It's all subjective and drifts over time. French grades start at 1, with that being very easy climbing. The hardest route in Australia is a 35, which is equivalent to a UIAA XII or French 9a. Significant objective hazard. One has a grade of 5. This tool is particularly useful for climbers There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. Grade II: Half a day for the technical portion. – Long rock sections of Grades V. If the big climbing wall chains define V1 = f5 and stick to it then pretty soon everybody that climbs indoors regularly will be that V1 = f5. For a brief explanation of traditional climbing grades follow this link. – A climb with an ascent of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). ExplorersWeb’s contributors typically use FR when discussing technical ratings in articles. 13c 5 13d 5. Beim Drytooling wird komplett ohne Eis, aber mit Eisgeräten geklettert. Sports climbing grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Conclusion. Just like the metric system, the French system arguably makes more sense than the American counterpart. Grades are used in rock climbing gyms and outdoors. 10 grade there are only 3 grades with the +/- system, 5. Coming from our frustrations of always trying to figure out what grading systems are used in which country and what do they mean in your own system, we have created this simple but hopefully helpfull comparison table. As per the French grading system, the grades range from 1 (lowest) to 9 (highest). The "French Grade" in bouldering refers to a system used to measure the difficulty of a climbing route, mainly in rope climbing but sometimes applicable in bouldering contexts. Well it is somewhere that I've wanted to go for a while, I would want to get route fit before I went though and that would take a while, that combined with the price of plane tickets etc to get out there from Europe, the trips I've already got planned and the fact that my body loves to get injured mean it's going to be some time. To account for their length, these problems are occasionally given sport climbing grades. Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! The French Numerical System, also known as the French Sport Climbing Grade, is widely used in Europe and other parts of the world. They’re tools to help you choose climbs aligned with your abilities and goals. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. This means that there are variations in difficulty based on personal experience and climbing style. International Climbing Grades Comparison Chart: Dec 9, 2024 · Kann ich Boulder-Schwierigkeitsgrade aufs Klettern übertragen? Die Antwort lautet: Nur bedingt. As climbs get more difficult, the number and the letters (a-c) increase. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Grades are subjective. 15 (most difficult), with subgrades International Mountaineering and Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. Grade III : La majeure partie de la journée est consacrée à la partie technique. Climbing grades provide guidance, suggesting the length of time an experienced climber might take to complete the route: Grade I: A couple of hours; Grade II: Closer to four hours; Grade III: Four to six hours (most of the day) Grade IV: One very long day; Grade V: Two days (requires an overnight stay) Grade VI: Two-plus days About this Bouldering Grades table: This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. 12a) for a longer section, reflecting how that segment would feel when you’re fresh, right off the ground. The first climber to complete a route assigns a grade, which can change as more people make the ascent and come to a consensus. In other words, the easiest difficulty is 1, and the higher the number, the more difficult it gets. Feb 1, 2024 · The rock climbing grade 5. 0 (easiest) to 5. Climbing grades range from easy to hard and vary based on geographic location, climbing discipline, and whether you are indoors or outdoors. Climbers attempting routes at this grade We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. A route with a hard crux or perhaps a route that is just really sustained at a slightly easier level, could get the same grade. Bouldering Grades May 31, 2020 · To help orient and understand the systems, here’s what you need to know about climbing grades. Traditional and winter grades can also help provide insight about the style and seriousness Sep 5, 2021 · French Numerical System (FR) — 6a, 8b+, etc. Mar 30, 2023 · Rock climbing grades. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. ” Dec 1, 2018 · Many people are introduced to climbing through climbing walls, where the French grading system is widely used and accepted. 2 French Adjectival System; 1. As the grade increases holds get smaller and fewer with more technical transitions between. A brief history of climbing grades. 12b, the other a grade of 5. Each type has its own grading system, which allows climbers to compare the difficulty of different routes within their chosen discipline. 4 5 10b 5. Grade V : nécessite généralement une nuit sur l'itinéraire. This system establishes 6 levels of difficulty for mountain ascents, based on the seriousness of the route, its length, altitude, technical difficulty, the grade of commitment it involves and the dangers that you may encounter (regarding weather conditions Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. A route may have official grades from several different grading systems (e. 5, for example, was a hike that included a fair amount Feb 19, 2021 · Rock climbing grades are used to describe the difficulty of climbing routes. Sport Climbing Grades Two graded climbing routes at an American climbing gym. Feb 14, 2024 · Bouldering grades serve as an essential guide, allowing climbers to gauge the suitability of a problem for their skill level. Jan 28, 2022 · Climbing grades describe the objective difficulty of a climb and are organized into grading systems based on the climbing style and the region. S. The technical difficulty is based on the hardest move of the climb, so even if a climb is mostly easy climbing but has one hard move, the technical rating will be that or the hardest mo Jan 6, 2024 · Climbing grades aren’t standardized globally, so appreciate local nuances. 12b 5. The system is relatively simple and only uses the combination of numbers and letters to represent difficulty. When I first looked for a useful comparison between Our climbing grades convertors (both classic routes and boulders) have been made by great climbers, French grades: France, Spain, Switzerland Jun 10, 2024 · Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. 12d 5. YDS assigns a numerical grade to each climb, ranging from 5. It uses a numerical system starting from 1 (easiest) to about 9b+ (hardest known), often combined with letters (a, b, c) and/or symbols (+) for further distinction So my country uses the french scale for indoor sports climbing. Cotations françaises, américaines, britaniques, brésiliennes, australiennes, UIAA, Font grades, V grades. Newer boulders in the higher grades (around 6b and up) and less popular areas have a more common grading, while older parcours boulders (In theory the bouldering grades have upper-case letters, and the route grades have lower-case letters, which the Rock Climbing table gets wrong). Keep reading: A Beginner’s Guide to Mountaineering The actual climbing scale starts from grade 11, as per the definition only then the real climbing with hands and feet begins. americanalpineclub. YDS ran up to 5, with 5 being the hardest moves known at that point. Please visit them on the web at www. Each one is designed to be simple. This allows climbers to accurately assess their skills and choose routes that are suitable for their ability level. A direct comparison between the New Zealand (Mt Cook/ Frost grading system) developed in 2018, and the French Alpine Grade, UIAA Grade and the Russian Grade is no longer as linear as the Mt Cook/ Logan grading system of 1982. Pour en savoir plus sur les cotations, les contextes de cotations, les systèmes de cotations utilisés par pays, les cotations de protection, la conversion de cotations universelle et la façon dont theCrag attribue les cotations aux voies et aux ascensions, veuillez vous référer à l'article Les cotations dans theCrag. A 5. Feb 4, 2015 · Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades. While the YDS is commonly used for traditional climbing, sport climbing often utilizes a different grading system known as the French grading system. This grade requires a high level of technical skill, strength, and mental fortitude. French System: Aug 18, 2017 · Let's take a look at how to read grades on the French scale by examining the grade 7a+. But as climbers techniques evolved they needed higher grades for harder routes. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. Each section is assigned a grade, either a V-grade for a crux or a YDS grade (e. The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades! Have fun! P. Both scales are used to quantify the difficulty of a climb. 15b 5. Understanding the development of different systems helps explain why British Very Difficult climbs are quite easy. The Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grade systems, including the V scale and French grading scale, help categorize the difficulty of bouldering and sport climbing routes nationwide. Fairly hard, snow and ice at an angle of 45-65 degrees, rock climbing up to UIAA grade III, but not sustained, belayed climbing in addition to a large amount of exposed but easier terrain. Feb 2, 2025 · It is the same 1 to 9c scale as the French sports grade, including a plus sign. The Old SA grading was used in many of the older traditional climbing areas but is seldom used today. 2 could easily become a 5. I. However, they may differ between regions. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. co. 12a) and an aid grade (A3), combined would read 5. French sport grade. 4 in bad weather. Online Conversion Tool for Climbing Grades & Bouldering Grades: Trad Grade, UIAA, French Sport Grade, Boulder Grades, American Scale & many more. Holds and supports are The ‘F’ (French) grade of a route is how technically hard and sustained a route is. 4 %âãÏÓ 1 0 obj > endobj 2 0 obj > endobj 3 0 obj > endobj 5 0 obj null endobj 6 0 obj >/XObject >/ProcSet[/PDF/Text/ImageC]/ExtGState >/Properties Jun 23, 2024 · Why are climbing grades important? Climbing grades are important because they provide climbers with a common language to communicate the difficulty of a route. Die tatsächliche Schwierigkeit bei Eisfällen und Mixedtouren ist von Faktoren wie Eisbildung, Temperatur, Sonneneinstrahlung und ähnlichem abhängig und kann um bis zu eineinhalb Grade von der angegebenen Schwierigkeit abweichen. [2] While the previous post discussed mountaineering grades, how to read them and how separate systems compare, this one will discuss the free climbing grades. The grade of a rock route is usually based on the crux, the most difficult move. This is much more immediately understandable if you have come from a sport climbing or indoor wall background as it follows the same basic format of the french sport grading system. This grade is reserved for elite climbers who have years of experience and have honed their skills to an exceptional level. Die Grade 5,0 - 5,3 sind für‘s Kraxeln, 5,4 - 5,7 für Anfänger, 5,8 - 5,11 für erfahrene Kletterer und 5,12 - 5,14 für Fortgeschrittene. Standards vary among climbing areas. Typically, most climbing walls have routes starting around 5 (5a, 5b 5c). – 40 to 50 hours of climbing. You’re most likely to come across it at climbing walls (including our own), but it’s also used for bolted outdoor sport climbs. A free climbing grade (5. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. ????♀️ Skip to content Search for: Search Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. Additionally, grades can be influenced by outside factors. After all, the same people are not climbing all the routes out there. I was reading and watching a lot about the V5/V6 plateau that most intermediate climbers hit, and I was expecting this to be around the 6b on the french scale. 12a A3. The French Numerical System (FR) is the dominant grading system for free climbing outside North America. You may have climbed French 6c routes but climbing Font 6c is another story. Grade VI : Deux jours ou plus d'escalade technique difficile. The two grades can then be used together to understand how bold or safe a route will feel. 10, 5. 15d). Originating in France (funnily enough!), the number refers to the overall difficulty of the line - simply, the higher the number, the harder the route. In fact, the only difference between the two systems is that the sport grades are written with a lowercase letter, and the Font grades are written with a uppercase letter. 4) is much the same as a Norwegian grade 4. In this part of the article, we’ll convert the North American V-scale to the Yosemite Decimal System as well as the Font scale to the French climbing system. A mistake often made is to combine the Australian & South African grades as the same, in fact they are about a grade apart and even more at the upper grades. Behind the grades: Grades are often debated in climbing because they aim to measure difficulty in objective terms, but the many variables in what makes a climb hard, and who is doing the climbing, make objectivity impossible. How Are Climbs Rated - From Dawn's FAQ over on TradGirl web site. 11) and the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) grades. 1 Yosemite Decimal System; 1. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit Sep 16, 2021 · Bouldering Grades vs. Dec 28, 2024 · Element 2 - The technical grade - The second part of the grade refers to the difficulty of the climbing itself. History also explains why a European UIAA grade IV (i. a 7b route is around 5. Grade 2: Not technical, but exposed to knife-edged ridges, weather, and high-altitude. Sport Grades Some boulder problems, in particular traverses, contain more moves than a lot of routes out there. 15d (American YDS), and XII+ (UIAA). At my gym in Sweden this is not the case at all. Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! Rock Climbing grades conversions. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. COM 6B 6B+ 7B 8B CRUX RAN Good climbing technique is imperative, a lot of strength in hands (fingers), arms and legs, increased level of condition, mobility: Via ferrata equipment obligatory, top rope climbing equipment recommend. 2 5. Mar 22, 2022 · One of the most popular grading systems worldwide, however, is the French Alpine Grades. The most commonly used grading systems for sport climbing include the French (e. D: difficile (difficult). With a clear understanding of the grading system, climbers can navigate a spectrum of climbs, from those well within their capabilities to more challenging endeavors that push their limits. So for example within the 5. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade Sep 28, 2021 · As a result, climbing grades are usually pretty uniformly applied in a single region. There is no need to apply a seriousness grade to the climbing, as the routes are protected by bolts. – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. So now im confused. Ropes are not normally used. Climbing grading systems are an integral component of our sport. Free climbing grades run the gamut. Consider the Climbing Style: sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering can have different grading nuances. Boulder werden normalerweise nach ihren schwersten Stellen bewertet, wohingegen beim Routenklettern sowohl die Ausdauerkomponente als auch der Anspruch durch das Einhängen der Zwischensicherungen wie Expressschlingen, Klemmkeile oder Friends eine große Rolle spielen können. If you have done any climbing, either in the gym or outside, you will most likely have run into the concept of climbing grades. Jan 31, 2025 · The system then calculates a total grade based on these inputs, minimizing the biases found in traditional grading methods. Australian 23 28 31 33 35 37 39 UIAA IX+/X- Xll+ 6b Hueco/V Font/Bleau Bouldering Grades vo- vo VI 4 CRUX RANGE. 13c in order to bypass her husband, Chris Weidner, on 8a. The YDS tends to focus more on the overall difficulty and danger of a route, taking into account factors such as route finding, protection, and overall commitment. 13b, also known as 8a in the French grading system, is considered to be an extremely challenging level of difficulty in sports climbing or lead climbing. Historically the US system made more sense. For Americans or trad climbers it may be difficult to relate it to their usual system and understand how hard a climbing route may be. Invented in France, and adopted for its simplicity, it spread to become the most widely used grading scale for sport rock climbing routes. . This French system is also used internationally for sport climbing with a mix of numbers and the first three letters of the alphabet to create a range of 1 to 9c. And “35” currently being the highest climbing grade completed here in Oz. Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. The route grade reflects the overall difficulty of the climb (being as fixed protection is used no consideration of danger is necessary Climbing Grade Chart Author: Alpinetrek. We also have a Grades comparison table for converting between different grading system used around the world. Rock Climbing Grade Conversion Chart French 6b 9b Yosemite 5. Sport climbing concentrates on strength and movement rather than equipment setup. 1 What is the Difficulty in Rock Climbing Grades?. The number is increased when a “harder” climb is developed. Oct 13, 2019 · Sure they can, there is no ISO for climbing grades with a sample of noble gas somewhere that they are derived from. Rock climbing grades are assigned by climbers who have completed the route, not an outside authority. Finally, there is also the XD (besides the extremely difficult). And it was linear, so a trail rated 4. Adjectival and Numbered Grades Combined. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. The sub-grade ranges from 1 to a theoretically infinite number (today the highest number is 15). 5 14b 5. Embrace the learning curve, and you’ll navigate the climbing world with confidence. Understand the Context: grades are subjective and can vary based on region, climbing style, and even the conditions on the day you climb. It was designed to rate hiking trails in general, not just climbing, 4 was the starting grade for a leisurely technical hike and 5 was the starting grade for a vertical surface that actually required climbing. nu, even though taking the full grade felt like “cheating. For example: The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. This system assigns numerical values to climbing routes, ranging from 3 to 9c, with higher numbers indicating greater difficulty. 0 (semblable à l’ascension d’une échelle verticale en termes de difficulté) à 5. That's when they started to use exponents in grade 5. The table is intended for outdoor climbing, and we established it before places like Kalymnos came along and messed up European grading. The hardest grade currently is the V17 (9a), this is the top end of the sport and it is very rarely achieved. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. The consensus seems to be that you need to adjust down gym grades at least 1-2 grades to make it comparable. Oct 27, 2017 · My impression is that +/- grades are typically used to grade trad routes and YDS (a,b,c & d) grades are used in sport climbing. Erst ab diesem Grad beginnt die echte Kletterskala. 13a 5 13b 5. The following chart compares most of the available grading scales. 7. For this reason, it might be useful to understand how to convert bouldering grades into climbing grades. Climbing grades are numbers, letters, and symbols that are designed to represent the proposed difficulty of a certain climb. Below you will find a table of the grading systems used for climbing in different countries as well as those used in Switzerland for different mountain sports. Nov 19, 2019 · When deciding on which course or expedition may suit you, where it’s essential for you to have some rock climbing ability, a good understanding of scrambling and rock climbing grades is useful. 1/5. It is all subjective. 10-, 5. 🧗♂️ Sports Climbing Grade Converter Convert from French to Yosemite Decimal System and more. Apr 27, 2025 · There are several rock climbing grade systems, each with their own history and regional use, but the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the French scale are the two grading systems used most. Frequent use of hands is required to support balance and hand and foot-holds must be trusted: Ⅱ – + Second grade: Here real climbing begins, that requires the movement of a limb at a time and a proper setting of the movements. Sep 15, 2012 · French Sport Grades: Originating in France with the birth of Sport Climbing (i. What are bouldering grades? Bouldering grades, and climbing grades in general, are systems of numbers (or numbers with letters and symbols) that convey the degree of difficulty. Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. For example, a route with a high adjectival grade, but low numbered grade (within the scope of the adjectival grade), will be a safe route. Aug 30, 2017 · Hi Sandy, it’s a bit of an off-hand comment to be honest! Anecdotally we’ve noticed that indoor grades are pretty whacky (lots of variation between climbing walls, inconsistent across the grade spectrum, very few hard problems etc. We in Sardinia (and Italy) use mostly the French chart. The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. The French grading scale begins at 1 and currently goes up to 9 Even in Germany, Austria and Italy, traditional home of the UIAA grade, sport routes are increasingly given a French grade instead. The first recorded climbing grade system was introduced by the Austrian mountaineer Fritz Benesch in 1894. The "7" refers to the difficulty of the climb, the higher the number the harder the climb. Grade Description of UIAA Grades; Ⅰ – + First grade: It is the easiest kind of scramble. Its nuances can be quite complicated for the beginner to understand, especially because there is not one universal system. Oct 15, 2021 · French sport grade: Sport climbing is climbing with bolts already placed throughout the rock, so climbers can focus on the strength and movements, and less on setting up gear. This isn't necessarily a rule but you do see this often enough. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. com web site. 9. It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. In the UK and most of continental Europe, you’ll find the French scale in climbing walls and outdoor sport. Whether you're scaling indoor walls or conquering outdoor crags, understanding the intricacies of climbing difficulty rankings is essential for progression and safety. Oct 23, 2023 · Each discipline or style has nuances that make it unique, including climbing grades. En Amérique du Nord, l’escalade sportive et l’escalade traditionnelle sont classifiées selon le Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Much like the French sport climbing grading system, the Font scale designates grades using a numeral (3 to 9), a letter (A to C) and - or + symbol. Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. routes with fixed protection), this grading system is probably the most widely recognised and used system in the climbing world. Hard, more serious with rock climbing at IV and V, snow and ice slopes at 50-70 degrees. Grade 6B – A climb with an elevation above 4,500 meters (15,000 feet). Can climbing get harder than abominable? French alpine climbers have not taken up the ABO so readily and in fact, it is hard to grade beyond ED+ even though the first ED climbs date back to the 1930s. The French sport system gives each route a difficulty grade consisting of a number between 1-9 (although technically it is open Dec 10, 2019 · The pure and simple reason for this is because they are most commonly used internationally, and better still because they avoid the inevitable confusion that occurs when people mix the Fontainebleau bouldering grades with French route grades. 3/5. 13-. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. 1. French System: For example, a 5c UK Trad grade is closer matched to a 6b French. Font grades are very special and in my experience it takes a few days or even trips until you get used to how bouldering in Font works. – More than SCALE GRADE UIAA GRADES FRENCH SCALE GRADE UIAA GRADES FRENCH SCALE GRADE I 1 IV + 4b VI + 6a/6a + II 2 V- 4c VII- 6a + III 3a V 4c/5a VII 6b/6b + III + 3b V + 5b VII + 6b + / 6c IV- 3c VI- 5c VIII- 6c + IV 4a VI 5c/6a VIII 7a Table 1: Table "Plaisir grades " (Buscaini archive) Aug 30, 2021 · But what goes into climbing grades, and why do they so often involve so many letters and numbers? Climbing is rife with technical jargon, and trying to decode the abbreviations can seem daunting. Apr 13, 2025 · Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. Aug 13, 2024 · Bouldering grades, such as the V-Scale or Fontainebleau system, focus on shorter, more intense sequences of moves, whereas climbing grades like the YDS or French system assess longer routes that may involve sustained effort. 15d 5. So the french boulder grades are harder than the french route grades. Including Grade Wike & Table. Mar 17, 2023 · Many boulderers also dabble in rope climbing and vice versa. Während die Grade 1-4 auf der amerikanischen Skala immer schwieriger werdendes Gehgelände bezeichnen, bezieht sich der Grad 5,0 auf Kraxelgelände. 15 (paroi très déversante). . Feb 26, 2021 · French sport grades. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. 2 days ago · History of the Origins of French Climbing Grades Difficulty Grades In 1935, Lucien Devies, a prominent French mountaineer, head of the GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne), and editor-in-chief of the magazine *Alpinisme*, the leading publication of the time, published a proposed grading system for difficulties in the Western Alps. Not recommend for people who cannot manage difficulty level E without problems. These help you assess an outing and provide examples with information concerning the terrain and the conditions. Saxon, Fontainebleau), mostly countries (South African, Brazilian, French, etc. Saved Content. First up on ‘rock climbing grades explained’ is the French sport grading system. Bouldering and sport climbing are two related but different disciplines and therefore different grading scales have been created for each. Grades Are Subjective. Nov 5, 2020 · Do you know why a something described as 'Very Difficult' is easier than something labelled 'E1'? Or why the grade E2 5a can elicit shudders whereas HVS 6a brings forth a rueful smile?!In order to understand UK trad grades, it’s useful to also understand the concept of the French grading system (usually used for sport and indoor climbing). May 26, 2021 · Heather Weidner soaking up sun on the pumpy Intolerance Test (5. Even today, many grade systems are confined to certain geographical areas, sometimes climbing areas (e. Rock Climbing Grades: Rock climbing grades typically use one of several grading systems, with the most common being the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States and the French numerical system (French grades) in Europe. Grade III – The rock structure is becoming steeper or even vertical. Grade 3: Moderate to hard, including some technical climbing. This lead climbing grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from YDS to French and back to French to Yosemite. Sep 25, 2023 · This guide delves deep into the world of rock climbing grades, offering insights into their origins, variations, and how they compare internationally. , 5. 15d (9c). 5 5. These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. The V scale, or “Vermin scale,” is more widely used for bouldering in the United States. Although bolted sport climbs tend to be given a single French grade, traditional climbs in Britain are graded using two figures, an adjectival and a technical grade. Grade I: Less than half a day for the technical portion. If a lowercase "f" is in front of a grade, it indicates the French sports grade, while a capital "F" before the score denotes the Fontainebleau boulder grade. Understanding Rock Climbing Grades › Training Tools Table of Contents. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. 10+. It must be noted, this is an open-ended scale, so there could be harder grades in the future! Are bouldering grades harder than sport climbing grades? It is hard to compare! Even so, as a boulderer, I would lean towards saying, “yes”. 15 range, all of which are impressively high climbing grades. The French Alpine system is close, but it really applies to mountaineering and alpine climbing. To my surprise V5 converts to 7b and V6 to 7c in the french scale. %PDF-1. Changing 8b+ Font grades to the V scale—for instance, translating 8b+ to V14—serves United States climbers. Climbing grades are a number or number-letter combination designed to correspond to the physical difficulty of a climb. However, always remember: climbing grade systems are devised by people who sleep in the dirt and live in caves. Ce système classifie les niveaux de difficulté par des chiffres qui vont de 5. British technical (4a) and adjectival (MS), combined would read MS 4a. Yet I hope this bouldering grades conversion table will help you get a little grasp on this difficult subject. The French simplified the rating system by starting at 1 and working their way up in difficulty—1 being the easiest. ) or even continents (Ewbanks, YDS) and sometimes they got exported to and established themselves in different areas making some grade systems more ubiquitous Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 29, 2024 · Not to be confused with the Fontainebleau scale for bouldering, the French system is the most common free climbing rating scale outside of North America. 13a), the Dungeon, Staunton State Park, Colorado. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing: Grade II – Here climbing begins, that requires climbing movement - holds and features for hands and feet are abundant. Grade IV : une journée complète d'escalade technique, généralement au moins 5. Each grade is further broken down into sub-categories, such as “a,” “b,” or “c,” and often even an “+” for added precision. If you already feel confident in your knowledge of Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. ) so it was mainly just a little speculation that the lack of higher grade indoor problems has lead people to think they’re V8 climbers, when really they could Jan 28, 2022 · Grade II : une demi-journée pour la partie technique. However, the two systems are not interchangeable. What Are Climbing Grades? Two climbing routes at an American climbing gym. Speaking about rock climbing grades, there are not only the systems listed above but also other difficulty rating systems. These systems, despite their differences, share the goal of providing a standardized understanding of climb difficulty, helping climbers make Jun 5, 2023 · TOP TIP: If you get confused between the French sport climbing grades and the Font-Scale, remember that the Font-Scale always used capitalized letters while the sport grades use small letters eg 6A = bouldering and 6a = sport climbing. The rock offers holds and features for hands and feet, although you will need to use more force to climb securely. These ranking systems, often referred to as grading systems, provide a standardized way to evaluate the challenge a route Apr 10, 2025 · Confusingly, the British technical grade system used for trad climbing looks very similar to the French grading system, which is used for sport climbing in much of Europe, including Britain. Climbing grades may seem confusing at first, but with experience, they become intuitive. For example: South Africa, Brazil, Finnish, Swedish. in Thailand many routes have an official French and Australian grade). From rock climbing to aid climbing and water ice climbing, there are many different systems. Apr 27, 2025 · The 8a grade is a derivative of the French system that is commonly used in Europe for sport climbing. 12b, whereas a 7B boulder equals V7, which is 5. There are currently over 300 climbs rated somewhere in the 5. The Alaska grades are also geared towards mountaineering as well as Jun 23, 2024 · Comparison to Sport Climbing Grades. Can rock climbing grades change over time? Yes, rock climbing grades can change as more climbers attempt a route and Apr 27, 2025 · The French 8a+ grade is the universally recognized standard of highly advanced skill in sport climbing. Grade 4: Hard to difficult, with technical climbing. The idea of the Trad Grade is to give a representation of the whole climb, including overall difficulty, how good the trad climbing gear is (or isn’t) and the hardest single move on the route. It is important to remember that when you are looking at climbing grades, you may consider a grade “easier” or more “difficult” than what it has been graded. Refer to ‘French Sport Grades’, outlined above, for further details. uk Keywords: climbing grade chart, boulder grade chart, climbing grade conversion, boulder grade conversion, rock climbing chart, climbing grade pdf, climbing grade download, climbing grade print, climbing grade table Created Date: 4/12/2017 4:36:22 PM Climbing Grades - An explanation of British climbing grades and comparison with other systems. The two main free climbing grading systems (which include the two main free climbing disciplines of sport climbing and traditional climbing) are the "French numerical system" and the "American YDS system". Climbing grades also help route setters to create routes that offer a Apr 11, 2025 · Different walls sometimes use slightly different grading systems or variations on a system, but typically walls in the UK will use French sport grades for roped climbing and either Font or V-grades for bouldering. 3 British Technical Grade (TG) System; 2 How Can You Use Grading Information to Choose Climbs that are Appropriate for Your Ability Level and Experience? Jan 31, 2011 · I think it might depend on whether you are comparing grade 5's at your local climbing wall, which are usually a doddle, or real grade 5's on French sport climbing crags, which tend to be significantly harder. Weidner has, with work, been unable to decouple route grades from her feelings about performance, though she jokes that she once took full points on a soft 5. e. It is a route called Silence and has only been climbed once, by Adam Ondra. A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. Rock Climbing Grades See Our Complete Guide to USA Climbing Grades Rock climbing is graded on both the technical difficulty of the climb and the commitment of the climb. Within some guidebooks (I'm thinking of Arco), you'll find a distinction, where UIAA grades are used for alpine rock climbs, and French for sport, even multipitch sport. Aug 24, 2023 · Before we jump into the specifics of climbing grades, let’s first take a look at the three main types of climbing: bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing. In practice, this has led to putting a lid on the grades as no one dares grade above ABO+. Most walls have signage explaining the system they use but don't hesitate to ask a member of staff if you're not sure. Grade 5: Difficult, with sustained climbing, high commitment, and few bivouac sites. 13a, also known as 7c+ in the French grading system, is an extremely challenging grade that is reserved for elite climbers. 10c 5 5. Download Table | Comparison of the recommended climbing grade metric scale for scientific studies to the UIAA, French, and American grades from publication: RECOMMENDATION OF THE UIAA MEDICAL the French classification it is generally based on the values used for climbing routes: the grades start from F (easy), PD (not very difficult), AD (quite difficult), D (difficult), MD (very difficult) and ED (extremely difficult). All guide books and Topos are only show this grading system. Scrambling grades: Grade 1 – short steps of rock, where you need to use your hands to make upward progress. Differences with Sport climbing grades. The French Rock Climbing Grade System The French ranking of outdoor, bolted, and sport climbing routes is the dominant climbing grading system to abide by. Un convertisseur ludique et fiable des différents systèmes de cotations en voies. The Australian “Ewbank” grading system, where “1” is the lowest grade for example; an inclined walk. Adam Ondra on the sport climbing route Silence, the hardest free climbing route in the world and the first-ever at 9c (French), 5. My gym uses as lowest grade a 2, which is a kiddie-route for birthdayparties. esgjy odpl ken rqb kqwher xmxwuh bukuj jws neahc aic