Smearing rock climbing. This technique is essential when footholds are minimal.
Smearing rock climbing Dec 8, 2022 · Edging and smearing are two rock climbing terms that describe the main footwork techniques. Choosing one is a matter of preference and climbing style. To smear effectively: Foot Placement: Place the ball of your foot on the rock surface, ensuring maximum contact. Smearing ‘Smearing’ is a friction-based technique for climbing or bouldering. Gain insights into the benefits of weight distribution, energy conservation Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their climbing shoe and a rock surface to gain traction, rather than relying on a distinct foothold. Smearing: when you place your foot directly on the rock or wall. Smearing is a technique used on any angle of climb – even the steepest climbs may involve smearing of some sort to get through a tricky section. Stemming is a common climbing technique on dihedral terrain. For those of us that learned to climb on the steep sandstone of the Western Cape, smearing is a foreign affair. You might get sideways glances by hoighty toighty climbers for the latter, but climbing is just about having fun right, so who cares! Smearing is a pretty odd movement. How you grip handholds or stand on footholds depends on their shape, size and position. But you can learn how to do it. Smearing is useful in slab climbing, when you're on low-angle rock without many defined footholds. Dave is an Owner & COO of the Philadelphia Rock Gyms and Program Director & Founder of the PRG Climbing School & Climbing Team. Woodman has studied the differences between the motivations of athletes of many “high-risk” sports, including mountaineering, extreme skiing, and skydiving. When there are defined footholds to stand on, the whole process is much easier, but traversing an undercling crack or rail can present a lack of any real footholds, and smearing on a blank wall is often necessary. Jan 31, 2022 · Excerpted from Toproping: Rock Climbing for the Outdoor Beginner by Bob Gaines. The smearing technique is most often used in slab climbing. This can be your inside edge, with the bonus of stability from your big toe, or the outside of your foot. The two most common types of foothold we use when looking at our footwork are edges and smears. Closure Style. Apr 16, 2013 · Joe Kinder, an ambassador for Eastern Mountain Sports, explains the climbing technique of "smearing" your climbing shoes against rock. Unlike traditional climbing methods that rely on distinct edges or holds for foot placements, smearing requires climbers to trust the friction between their shoes and Apr 21, 2020 · How to Practice Smearing Effectively in Climbing. the Idwal slabs in Wales or the Flatirons in Colorado), however, the introduction of advanced rubber-soled shoes enabled climbers to use the technique of 'smearing' to ascend steeper and blanker slabs. It involves pressing the sole of your shoe into the rock, generally keeping your heel lower than your forefoot, to create as large a contact area as possible to securely grip smooth surfaces such as slabs or volumes—and impress with your performance on both. Apr 30, 2023 · Think of edging shoes as your stalwart companions, steadfastly supporting your feet on minute ledges, as opposed to softer, downturned shoes that excel in smearing or digging into the rock. This technique allows climbers to "stick" to blank sections of rock face lacking defined holds. For over 25 years, he has helped world-class and aspiring rock climbers alike pursue their passion and achieve their goals. Traditionally the best edging climbing has been the flat-lasted models with a full-length midsole. Jul 15, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their shoe and the rock surface to gain upward movement. It allows you to essentially climb Aug 3, 2022 · “In rock climbing, it seems the anxiety’s so central to the whole reason for doing it,” says Tim Woodman, a sport psychologist at Bangor University in Wales. The sole of your climbing shoe is thrust directly into a rock to acquire May 26, 2021 · Check Best Price and Reviews. ‘Smearing’ is when the rock is featureless so we smear as much of the surface of our boot against the rock as possible and use the Jul 31, 2023 · Climbing Magazine and pro climber Paige Claassen have teamed up to create Precision Footwork, a 7-week online course which focuses solely on footwork, one of the most crucial—but all too often overlooked—aspects of rock climbing. Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the rubber sole of climbing shoes to create friction against a rock surface when there are minimal or no footholds available. If there was a spectrum of climbing footwork techniques, smearing would be Dec 29, 2022 · Dave Rowland. Learn how this technique improves footwork, balance, and stability, allowing climbers to conquer challenging routes with confidence. Smearing. When placing a smear or smearing, you rely solely on the friction created between the sticky rubber of your climbing shoes and the rock. The technique is great for Aug 1, 2017 · What is smearing, how to do it and when to use it. From scaling towering rock faces to Nov 11, 2023 · In this article, we will uncover the fascinating physics behind smearing on the rock, unraveling the secrets behind this essential skill in the world of climbing. For over a decade, our climbing experts have tested over 75 shoes side-by-side to bring you the most comprehensive climbing shoe review in existence. ‘Edging’ is standing on a small edge or a tiny ledge. Apr 16, 2025 · Whether you're trad climbing, bouldering, or crack climbing, climbing shoes are a must, no matter your style. perpendicular) to the surface of the rock (taking into account the features of the rock you are smearing in) the more likely it is to stick. Jul 6, 2024 · Smearing is a rock climbing term used to describe the action of placing the sole of your shoe onto the rock to create a high amount of friction on relatively featureless slabs. While it's true that all climbing shoes can be used for edging to some extent, those with a stiffer construction and a flat shape will always outshine others. Here are some rock climbing tips I share when climbing this bouldering problem in steps to create this continuous motion whe The Climbing Technique Stations are a part of the Climbing Fundamentals Area where you can explore vertical terrain before heading out on the floor. So, what exactly is smearing in rock climbing, and why is it revered as a fundamental skill among climbers? May 10, 2021 · Some of the rock-climbing skills that have been honed over the years include edging, smearing, stemming, flagging, lay-backing, mantle, underling, side pull, and so on. . May 27, 2025 · Lowest grades climbed in the rock shoes: V0 and 5. When I began rock climbing in the early 1970s, the infamous “Stonemasters” ruled the Southern California crag scene. How to Smear. A great technique to use is smearing, which is the process of pressing your shoe sole directly into the rock to get a grip. Stem – Stemming is pushing against two surfaces simultaneously. There are limitless ways to describe positioning your climbing shoes on a foothold, but the main two you’ll hear in the rock climbing gym are edging and smearing. Feb 16, 2015 · Flagging: a climbing technique in which one foot is crossed behind the other to avoid barn-dooring and to improve balance. Lace-up; Hemp Lining; Our pick for best budget slab climbing shoes, the Black Diamond Momentum, brings something new and fresh to the table compared with traditional rock climbing shoes like the ones mentioned above. Nov 23, 2023 · Smearing is a fundamental technique used in a variety of sports and activities, from rock climbing to martial arts. Smearing: Some of the earliest forms of rock climbing were on large easy-angled slabs encountered by climbers while mountaineering (e. Nov 11, 2023 · If you are on a higher-angle slab, then smearing gets more tricky and the climbing becomes more like face climbing. Nov 15, 2023 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the friction between your climbing shoes and the rock surface to gain stability and upward progress. Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a straightforward technique in rock climbing that is relatively simple to pull off initially but takes some practice to master. Unlike All I can add to what everyone else has already said is to think of the direction of the the force you are putting through your feet and into the rock. Heel hook: the use of the heel on a hold, usually near chest level, to aid in pulling and balance. An interesting mantle crux move. This technique relies on the rubber of the shoe to create friction against the rock or wall, allowing the climber to maintain balance and progress upwards without a Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. An expert climber will know how to use smearing climbing to reach to the top while utilizing the tiniest support the rock has to offer. Jul 6, 2024 · We explore what smearing in rock climbing is, detailing what it is, how it works and considering whether it’s something hikers do too Sep 11, 2020 · However there are cases where smearing on soft rock works better on hotter days with a decent breeze and low humidity. Smearing vs. Edging. Oct 24, 2023 · What is Smearing in Rock Climbing. So, get ready to dive into the science that enables climbers to defy gravity with every step. Nov 12, 2023 · Smearing, a technique used in rock climbing to gain traction on smooth and slippery surfaces, requires a specific type of shoe. Find out how smearing reduces stress on finger and hand holds, enhances precision and control, and increases stability on slippery surfaces. Practising in a climbing gym builds strength, endurance, flexibility and technique, but to climb well on real rock, you’ll need to actually climb on real rock. In this article, we want to take a deeper look at smearing, one of the unique rock-climbing techniques involving your footwork. Edging involves stepping onto a hold with the rubber edge of your shoe. To smear, as you are pulling with straight arms on your handholds, push your toes and balls of your feet flat on the wall to create Dec 29, 2023 · Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you place the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock wall. At that time, American and British climbers were setting the standards, and the Stonemasters were doing some of the hardest rock climbs in the world. Mar 26, 2024 · Climbing, as a sport, captivates enthusiasts with its blend of physical prowess, mental acuity, and sheer determination. Regardless of what you are climbing, high-quality rubber is always a huge benefit in any style of slab climbing. For more information, Jan 11, 2022 · Sometimes they’re climbing “moderate” 2,000-3,000-foot big walls that are a technical mix of face climbing, smearing, and crack climbing from fingers to off-width. Dec 29, 2023 · Smearing in rock climbing is a friction-based technique where you place the flat rubber sole of your climbing shoes directly onto the rock instead of a reliable edge or better foot placement. What are the basic rock climbing footwork techniques that will improve climbing technique and efficiency? Basic footwork for rock climbing includes mastering these 4 techniques: Edging, Smearing, Toe Hook, and Heel Hook. Factors such as rock quality and choosing the best foot placements come into play. The closer that force is to bring normal (I. Practice side pulls, underclings, and gastons to understand how body positioning affects your grip. Broken down into small, digestible lessons, these stations are designed to guide you through the foundational concepts of climbing such as basic climbing terminology, efficient foot placement, and different body positions. What is slab, you ask? Well, slab climbing involves ascending virtually blank rock faces that have a less than vertical incline (watch the Nalle Hukkataival video above). The speed climbing wall has been the exact same since 2005. Higher temps means the rubber is a little softer and can make more contact when smearing on slab, but low humidity and some wind means less sweaty hands and wet rock. Focus on pressing your feet directly into the wall. the American Alpine Club) and can have an influence on Government policy in areas that interest the Smear – Smearing happens when, in lieu of a foothold, you use the friction of your shoe against the wall. In general, if a smear starts to slip, fight your instinct and weight it more—additional pressure will increase the friction. How you position your body depends on the location of these holds and the angle of the rock. In rock climbing smearing is essentially a foot technique that uses the friction between the sole of your shoe and the rock or climbing wall. Some shoe models, like the Evolv Defy , come in more than one closure style. Which way around you choose will depend on the direction of your next move. Smearing is not a skill that most of us Cape climbers have. Developing the correct footwork and optimal use of your feet, not only will save you a lot of energy while mastering climbing Smearing is a rock climbing term used to describe the action of placing the sole of your shoe onto the rock to create a high amount of friction on relatively featureless slabs. You achieve this friction by pushing your feet directly into the wall, using it as a foothold via the friction you create with your weight. Smearing happens when you don't have an actual foothold, so you rely on your shoe's rubber for friction against the rock. Smearing is more associated with vast runout slabs on Spitzkoppe in Namibia or the faint dimples and waves granite on Paarl Rock. A stiffer shoe will offer you superior underfoot support, acting like a platform for you to stand on, and saving your muscles from over-excursion as you dig into small edges. Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you use the friction between your climbing shoe's sole and the rock surface (or wall) to create grip, rather than In bouldering, "smear" or "smearing" refers to a technique where the climber presses the sole of their climbing shoe against a featureless or low-friction surface to gain traction. Instead of relying on small edges or holds, smearing allows you to distribute your weight evenly across a larger surface area, maximizing contact with the rock. It is particularly useful on smooth or slabby surfaces where traditional footholds are minimal or nonexistent. Enjoy! What is Smearing? Oct 27, 2021 · Rock climbing involves a number of different techniques including smearing, jamming and edging. What It Is: Smearing involves pressing the rubber of your climbing shoes directly against the rock or wall for friction. Apr 27, 2016 · Smearing. 10; Highest grades climbed in the rock shoes: V10 and 5. Bouldering and sport routes are ever-changing, the same routes are never repeated. Innovative Proprietary Molded Rubber; Engineered Knit Technology; Specs. What is Smearing? In this method of climbing, you press your foot against a rock and utilize the forces of friction to keep you stable. Features. Jan 22, 2022 · The key to smearing is to maximize rubber-to-rock contact, using the upper ball of your foot and toes to press hard on indentations, dishes, bulges, and other angle changes within the sloping hold. Keep reading to learn more about this important technique. How to Practice: Try traversing a climbing wall while intentionally using holds in different directions. Basically, to smear, you place your foot onto the rock (a dish or dip is helpful here), drop your heel, and press your body weight into your foot. Mar 17, 2022 · The rock climbing technique dogma is essentially to keep your arms feeling weightless and place the burden on your feet. This technique is essential when footholds are minimal. Aug 4, 2023 · Smearing is a rock climbing technique that involves using a smooth, featureless portion of the wall as a foothold. 2. e. Smearing is when you press the sole of your shoe into the rock and propel yourself up using only the friction you get from your shoe. Here’s a brief clip where Neil Gresham demonstrates the smear and how to execute it correctly. They offer the grip, precision, and control you need to send it on any problem or route. Rock climbing shoes are available with three closure styles: lace-up, velcro (hook and loop), and slip-on. In this article, we will explore different types of climbing shoes that excel in smearing and discuss their unique features. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Jul 10, 2021 · Most climbing companies have their own specific slab climbing shoes specifically designed for the unique conditions required to slab climb! What Is Smearing In Climbing. g. Rock climbing is a largely self-governing sport principally relying on social sanctioning but where individual country-level associations can act as "representative bodies" for the sport some of which are formally recognized by the State (e. In essence, rather than a traditional foothold, the climber uses the surface of the rock, relying on the friction generated between the rubber in their shoes and the wall. 14; Most accessible testing venue: The lead tester, Matt Samet’s, home climbing gym: circuit walls and a Grasshopper Wall with 40° MoonBoard; also The Campus, a new boards-and-bouldering gym a 10-minute walk from his house Nov 24, 2022 · Rock Climbing Basics: Smearing Getting into rock climbing basics involves acquiring the right equipment, proper footwork, and trusting your body to get you up the mountain. For this type of rock, you’re going to need a shoe that offers a little extra support to push off those tiny features. Whether you love it or hate it, smearing makes climbing slab possible. Jan 16, 2024 · Smearing is an advanced climbing skill that utilizes the friction of rubber shoes to temporarily grip the rock and progress upwards. In the realm of rock climbing, the term “smearing” serves as a cornerstone technique that can quite literally mean the difference between reaching the summit or taking an unplanned plunge. Mar 6, 2025 · Smearing is traditional climbing jargon when climbers apply pressure with the sole of their shoe against the rock, gaining traction with little or no footholes. It involves using the friction and surface area of your shoes to gain traction on a smooth or sloping surface, allowing you to maintain balance and control. Sep 14, 2018 · But did you know that several languages actually use the word schmear and it means smear. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. Smearing involves pressing your climbing shoe directly against a smooth surface of the rock or wall to create friction and support. Just place your soot and smear that shoe rubber into the wall as hard as you can and boom! Instant foothold. By using your gravity-advantage, balance, and smearing technique, you will be amazed at what is possible! Aug 4, 2023 · Outdoor climbing presents unique challenges for edging and smearing techniques due to the unpredictability of natural rock formations. When you smear, look for small depressions or protrusions that will give a little extra friction. Smearing is the act of pushing rubber, usually under the big toe, across vague features on the rock to create purchase. Nov 7, 2023 · Discover why smearing is crucial in climbing. Outdoors, it’s easier to smear on granite and sandstone, because they don’t have a smooth surface. Feb 27, 2024 · Stiff models are perhaps the most obvious best climbing shoes for edging. Whereas bouldering and sport climbing follow an onsight format, speed climbing is extremely consistent and precise. Mar 23, 2023 · This allows for greater toe-in power on steep terrain, but can be uncomfortable for some styles like crack climbing. Jul 17, 2021 · Smearing describes a specific rock climbing foot technique that uses the friction between the sole of your shoe and the rock or climbing wall. So if you want, you can call this move a smear or a schmear. That’s the ultimate use for Five Ten’s new NIAD VCS, the updated version of the discontinued Anasazi line of shoes, which includes lace and slipper style shoes. This can be terrifying but with the right shoes, you can smear your way up an immensely Mar 10, 2025 · Rock climbing shoes typically feature one of three closure-system styles: laces, Velcro, or slippers. Sep 13, 2024 · In the realm of indoor competitive climbing, speed climbing is an anomaly. iypzlxp lksiq bltzdc mptxh lqhzewb qnd iueny xvjhqv rlvgnhk ycnagi