Hexes for alpine climbing - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. I’d get fewer quick-draws maybe just one pack of the short ones a couple of the 18cm and 6 total 60cm slings for alpine draws so some extra snap or wire gates for those (if you’re using a single rope then alpine draws would help against zig zagging your way up routes and prevent rope drag) and 2 total 120cm slings a set of wallnuts and Shop for Cams, nuts and hexes at MEC. 5” for six-sided hexes. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. Get inspired gear, informed advice, 100s of brands – all backed by our Rocksolid Guarantee. – Basic rock climbing skills like putting on your harness and tying in to the rope. Tricams You can place them like nuts by settling them into constrictions, or you can fold the sling of the tricam over its head before placing it. The original hexes were invented by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost, and called Hexentrics. - Hexes come in a wider range of sizes and go far bigger than nuts will. I'll have to watch some videos on Tricams, I'm still a bit iffy on where, when and how to place them. g. Shop hexes. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Climbing hexes are large hexagonal shaped wedges of metal that you slot into constrictions in wider cracks, to provide protection when traditional climbing outdoors. They are light and good for tripling up without too much clutter. Tri-Cams Sep 16, 2011 · - Hexes can usually be placed in 3 orientations to give 3 sizes per unit - nuts usually only manage 2 sizes (although it's not quite this clear cut). 9mm power cord. I'm thinking of places where small chocks may not work, or small frozen cracks. Photo Galleries Aug 25, 2024 · 7. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of A hex is an item of rock-climbing equipment used to protect climbers from falls. net. Oct 31, 2024 · A New Wave Classic for Alpine Climbing CAMP USA Pro Nut. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. I’m also way more likely to be climbing at my limit while cragging. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. Mar 16, 2009 · i am just curious to know what do you carry on moderate and technical climb on alpine grounds ? so far in my rack i got: nuts (1-10)(some double) hexes (4-9) tricam (. Alpine climbing is inherently dangerous: that point can’t be emphasized enough. The difficulty level can vary greatly, but it often involves long, multi-pitch routes that test endurance, skill, and adaptability to changing conditions. At some point I retired carrying hexes though I’d still consider carrying a couple on longer alpine routes. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. 25-8 ) cams (1,2,3,4) 6 locking biners 12 wiregate biners 1 atc 60m dry rope(10. The original Hexes were invented by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost, and called Hexentrics. 8$ each; BD Tan Small and Large Locker. Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. Last gen carabiners, still great. Alpine climbing involves climbing in mountainous environments, often combining rock, ice, and snow climbing. We cover how to inspect bolts, when to retire carabiners, best practices when clipping to avoid big falls, and managing risk. Performance in Jun 15, 2012 · Tap the pick for extra purchase on thin seams. From placing/removing gear and Sep 20, 2010 · what are your ideas about alpine climbing in the cascades with them. Is it a generational thing? An asymmetrical six-sided tube, a hex is placed like a nut: directly into a narrowing section of the crack. Parallel Cracks 8. I also have a 10. The reason behind this was that someone trying to make their own at home wasn’t very accurate as cutting and made it by accident as realised that the eccentric shape work An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. The total weight for three hexes covering . My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. 5-3 C4 cam size. Nov 8, 2008 · Alpine and winter climbers, mountaineers and those who were too poor for cams carried on using Hexs, but the real turn around in the hex’s fortune came in the form of Wild Country’s Rockcentric, which took that 70’s design and gave it a 90’s design and material makeover and most importantly adding the curved face to the design. Where as your standard nut has two. Choose your smallest hex bigger than your largest wire and choose two more hexes up to around a size 9 (three is a good quantity). The "polycentric" hexentric was designed by Swedish–Norwegian climber Tomas The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. Seems like it is a good way to double up on cams and save weight. I asked him why he thought hexes were so bad and he claimed "there isn't a spot you can put a hex and not be able to put a cam". For the comparison I looked at BD C4 camalots versus BD wired hexendrics. offsets nuts are really nice to have Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. some cracks on the sea cliffs at Gogarth, Wales are very irregular and take large hexes in Oct 15, 2020 · I have all the gear for technical ice and mixed Alpine climbing, a big rack of ice-screws, cams, nuts/hexes, schlings, ropes, a two person high altitude mountaineering tent, ultralight gas stove and cooking set and anything else necesarry. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments – Personal climbing movement skills & rock climbing techniques with the aim of climbing efficiently & enjoyably. The downside being that hexes are easier to place incorrectly. Hexes (or hexcentrics) are larger nuts with an eccentric hexagon shape that will twist and cam into parallel cracks. OVERALL SCORE. 5/8. Flared Cracks and Pin Scars 7. - Hexes can be used in placements where the sides are almost parallel, due to the camming action of pulling on them - they were used for this before sprung camming devices were invented and it can make them a bugger to remove at times! Oct 24, 2018 · 1 - The length and diameter can depend on your climbing preferences. And what are the pros and cons of each brand Yeah, I'm thinking more for alpine, I'd like to save having to bring doubles of my C4s up with me. May 31, 2005 · Following the argument that hexes have a place on an alpine climbers rack I looked at three pieces that would complement as set of nuts. Depending on the climbing route, alpine climbers have to be versed in placing traditional climbing protection such as camalots, nuts, hexes, and pitons. Ughhhhh, the point of the hex has apparently been lost on everyone since they came out in the 70's. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. co. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. $51 at Amazon. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. $13 for both. Click and order now or visit our shop. How to Prepare for Alpine Climbing. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. A downward pull on the wire rotates the hex and wedges it tightly in the crack. set of nuts. Mar 17, 2021 · Here is my 2. 0. – Technical sessions will include further knots, tying in to anchors and using protection equipment (slings, nuts, cams, hexes etc). “In alpine terrain, I usually carry - Hexes come in a wider range of sizes and go far bigger than nuts will. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Saved Content. They were developed as an alternative to pitons, which are hammered into cracks, damaging the rock. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Mar 3, 2025 · Trango Alpine Draws - New, no tags. More a rock person? Maybe a 7 mm 20 foot cord is a better choice. Hexes work much better than cams in a lot of placements, they're worth keeping around even when you get more cams. They are intended to be wedged into a crack or other opening in the rock, and do not require a hammer to place. I tend to choose passive pro over active, I think Hexes would be great for building anchors in the alpine too. Alpine climbing is the only avenue where I bring hexes. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Nuts, hexes, camming devices, friends, pegs, ice screws, pitons and passive and active protection for rock climbing, alpine climbing and mountaineering at Outside. Sep 17, 2024 · Hexes (and nuts, too) contact the rock snuggly with no such space for the rope to cause mayhem. Unless I'm climbing a pure splitter, or something where pump factor is an issue I usually take some hexes. Some people will carry more, others may carry none, preferring cams. Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. black diamond, wild country I'm looking to buy some hexes but wondering what brand should i buy. uk JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. 94"-2. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Want more in-depth training? Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. I think if you are going to be doing any mixed climbing, climbing wet routes, adventure climbing, climbing on loose flakes or features, or really anything that might have some expansion where a cam would be a bad idea then hexes are the way to go. Saved Content. Similar to sport climbing, you want to use standard (non-locking) carabiners while you’re climbing the route, and locking carabiners for anchors and belaying. While popular during the early days of climbing, hexes are now used mostly for more niche types of climbing, like alpine climbing or winter climbing. Feb 27, 2009 · I'm interested in getting a handful of pitons for alpine wandering. Place a hex (okay, fine, a nut) at the apex of a roof or when the angle mellows out to keep the rope running smoothly. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. Tricky to place and have largely been superseded by spring-loaded camming devices , but they still have their uses, particularly in winter climbing where they'll bite into iced up cracks. Buy climbing quickly at a low price in Varuste. Nov 16, 2014 · I don't use hexes a lot, except in winter and on easy alpine terrain, when I don't bother with cams. A hex is an item of rock-climbing equipment used to protect climbers from falls. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. Oct 28, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of webbing, cord or a cable which is part of the hex. 60$ for all 4. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. 5" (#5,#7,#9) is a hair over 9oz. i herd that BD sucks is that true? Jul 30, 2019 · A great example of big wall climbing in an alpine climbing scenario occurs in the climbing documentary, “Meru,” where three accomplished mountaineers attempt the technical, demanding face of Meru in the Himalaya. Alpine climbing and Sep 21, 2024 · black diamond wired hexentrics review best passive protection for trad climbing lightweight hexentrics for alpine routes durable climbing gear for beginners aluminum hexes for flaring cracks hexentrics vs cams in climbing top-rated wired hexentrics for climbers how to use black diamond hexentrics hexentrics for unique rock placements climbing I had a younger climber scoff at me in the parking lot by Barker's Dam in J-Tree for carrying hexes. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. He may be right, but I have more confidence in a well placed hex than any cam. There are various types of climbing hexes available in many different brands, colours, shapes and sizes. If you wanted super light weight for easy ground, where you may only place a couple of nuts per pitch, then they kinda work. 5mm mammut matterhorn) slings (3x30cm 2x60cm, 3x120cm, 1x200cm) 5xscreamers 20m 7mm cordelette They are often preferred by alpine mountaineers over spring-loaded camming devices because of their lack of moving parts and overall lower weight for the same size crack. We also cover placin there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Slings dated 2020, would whip without question. reviews Fast delivery — worldwide Professional customer service 2500m² store Buy It For Life™ TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. 5mm 50 meter single rope and will have a new dry treated 7. Some rock types take hexes better than cams (e. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. Forces are probably lower on snow, and you can put protection wherever you want it. Instead, the rope flows over them, pushed to the surface of the crack by the unmoving mass of metal. Overhanging dry tooling and free-hanging daggers are now standard fare in the relatively low-risk cragging environment, but moving on to mixed climbing in the alpine arena is a step. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Forces on rock can be higher, and protection might be farther apart. Quickdraws and Alpine Draws are both used in trad climbing to attach your pieces of protection to the rope. BD Pilot - 25$ Trango B52 - 10$? Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos. 77. Not to mention cheaper to bail off of if the need comes up. On easy alpine climbs that are off the beaten path, I usually take a few nuts, maybe a few hexes, always my pink tricam. Alpine climbing objectives often involve rock climbing. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of Hex (climbing) explained. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Quickdraws & Alpine Draws. Unlike the solid granite in the Cascades and other climbing destinations, Olympic rock holds few cracks for protecting with cams, nuts, and hexes. . The "polycentric" hexenteric was designed by Swedish/Norwegian climber Tomas Carlstrom Oct 13, 2019 · Hi, Camp Bolo nuts were an idea for Alpine climbing, they are perfectly usable, but the main issue, and the same with your doubled hexes, is you will run out out of gear in a couple of placements. Most commonly, a carabiner will be used to join the hex to the climbing rope by means of a loop of Aug 31, 2022 · When I started trad climbing I used to carry a few hexes to round out my rack before I could afford doubling and tripling up on some of the larger sized cams (Black Diamond C4 #1 and larger). Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. The hex is meant to be able to be placed in 4 different attitudes. So, one could argue that each hex has the benefit of being more diverse. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Jun 27, 2023 · In this article, we cover the main principles of safety when lead climbing—both when clipping bolts and learning to place cams, nuts, hexes and tri cams. 5mm 60 meter double rope. Alpine Climbing Difficulty Levels in Alpine Climbing. BD Hexes 1-6 and Stoppers 12/13 - $35 for all obo; BD Hotforge Small Lockers - Three new, one lightly used. 5 cents: Hexes have become more of a niche piece of gear but in my opinion they still have a place in climbing. May 3, 2012 · 3 Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes for alpine climbing (anyone bring these on bigwall?) Metolius Quadcams 00-8 (doubles in 1,2,3, and 5) BD C4s 4-6 Trango Big Bros (red and blue sizes) Metoilus Offsets 00/1 to 4/5 6 Wild Country Friends Medium range 12 standard length alpine slings 3 double length slings 6 petzl spirit quickdraws, various lengths Feb 10, 2023 · Rock Climbing in Alpine Terrain. May 25, 2025 · While offering excellent remote alpine climbing opportunities, the rock is often fragmented, chossy, and loose. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. I also use them for top roping, rather than beat up my cams. Personally, I think BD hexes are pretty crappy compared to curved hexes but they are what I have so, I cut the wires and reslung them on sterling 5. They are often preferred by alpine mountaineers over spring-loaded camming devices because of their lack of moving parts and overall lower weight for the same size crack. Climb on snow a lot? Consider a 6 mm 14-15 foot cordelette. Quickdraws have fixed lengths and are commonly Hexes - How popular these days, really . This rotational placement allows it to get a secure hold in a parallel-sided crack.
qiapa dvws wfbir fgqlul qukx akgd ftbd ybzez ohmhc tvbbn