Heel hook climbing height reddit Anything that resembles resisting a force at the heel causes knee pain. It is an easy way to practice without having to set up a full 15 foot rope. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I think a better distinction between heel hooks is pulling, versus twisting. If the pain is unbearable without bagging out, it’s prolly just not the shoe for you. As boulders get harder, the two moves get more and more distant. It definitely can be worked around I’m not saying a negative index makes climbing impossible. edging for heels? I usually try to find a crimp to fold my heel out on and sit on it. e. Despite the pain being on and off, it was severe enough that I actively avoided boulders with right heel hooks. Louis has a great video with extra tips for beginner heel For both, the recovery time was fairly significant. So naturally I’ve tried it a good amount of times and the day after my heel started to hurt a little bit, but I didn’t think too much of it and tried it some more the next day. You don't really want to be launching off of heel hooks. com Oct 29, 2023 · The more you practice, the better you will become at recognizing when heel hooks are appropriate. I have done so occasionally, and I usually fall horizontally and once the rope tightens you correct as your lower half weighs more. For anybody else who is curious - Hip CAR's I can't vouch for this video or exercise as I haven't done them but I've been limited in hip flexibility both for trad climbing (dihedrals/chimneys/grovely stuff) and also for high/hard heel hooks and for scrunchy feet as a tall person so I might try these out. Yes, stiffer shoes slip on slopey gym holds, and they need to fit more tightly to feel secure on high torque heel hooks, resulting in less comfort, but unless you are a 110 pound twink who climbs caves and boards all the time, I think the trade off is favorable. . Ideally, it's about body position. Maybe 20 heel hooks in a 2 hr session. climbing and/or hangboarding + pulling stuff and core) on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, antagonist work (i. The first couple days, just walking would feel unstable. Heel hook performance - smearing (aretes) - how firm is the heel cup on a slopey hook? After very hard heel hook on a boulder. Great idea with the heel hooks! Scarpa drago lv - my current send shoe, love the sensitivity, but air pockets in heel prevent solid heel hooks Butora gomi narrow - my outdoor/ropes shoe, comfortable and sticky, but not sensitive, a bit too stiff Sportiva skwama lv - too much room around ankle Shoes considering: Butora acro comp Unparallel flagship lv Just as the title says. If you're climbing mostly at a gym, focus on heel-hook heavy routes say one day a week. 1. After 3-6 months I could heel hook on most things, but nothing too tight or hard. You can aggressively hook without worrying about the shoe slipping off your heel. I also don’t generally use them a lot so maybe I’m not even using them when I should? I’ve seen people use toe hooks on mantles when I thought you should heel hook so it might just be my inexperience . When heel hooking, the hip external rotation technique works well for pushing downward to transfer some weight on the heel instead of the hand (thus replacing a limb). For the 'pop' here at the end, i'd want to be coming off my toes Proper Heel Hooking Technique? Saw this post last week, where many people stated that rotating your knee out while heeling causes a lot of pressure on the LCL. You will actually have to engage your butt, hamstring 12 votes, 19 comments. You point your toe in a heel hook which tends to make your shoe looser on your foot. Within a couple weeks I could do most climbing without fear, but couldn’t heel hook besides very light positional stability. I ended up buying a pair of La Sportiva Solution’s, and LOVE these for heel hooks. Cannot fathom the core tension and finger strength needed to do that. Took me literally two years of climbing to find my daily driver gym shoe (drago). To get better at heel hooking, you just need to heel hook while you're climbing, focus on the movement and play around with it to find out what works. I picked up yoga again and have really worked on my flexibility. true. Although a simple technique, mastering the Heel Hook requires a significant amount of time and practice. Thanks! I’ll do that, however we have two different main stores that sell climbing shoes, one sells Scarpa, Tenaya. i had similar issues to the ones you describe with my current pair of vsr scarpas and have similar sounding feet to you and i went to a gear shop that had some evolvs. As you gain height, rotate the foot so the toe points outward to the side. Everybody has it’s own level when it comes to climbing so this is not to be rude to anyone, at all, but especially in indoor boulders I very often see especially beginner climbers hooking where they could simply put the toe normally, what’s your opinion on it? See full list on climbinghouse. I have a slopey right heel-hook and my arms are extended up and to the left of this. For context, I'm 5'7" about 135lbs. Nothing fits my heels. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. You get it if you sign up for email updates. Any shoe I try on, even if otherwise perfect, will be baggy on the sides of my heel. I am also a common user of crazy heel hooks. The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. Good beta just gotta fine tune the execution MMA heel hooks are very similar to climbing heel hooks. Position 2: Side heel – toe to the side. Aggressive shoes with a heel pocket that fits. The day after, I went to see an osteopath and was basically told that it was a minor rupture and to expect a full recovery in 6-8 weeks. Good luck on your climbing journey and welcome to this wonderful sport, that will give you many friends and tons of fun and frustration. However, I am not sure how applicable this is for weird heel hooks with a heavily bent leg that must be used to prevent a foot cutting loose or a barndoor. I actually hate that quote about heel hooks and drop knees not making you stronger. My regular shoes are 44 and I tried a 42. NOTHING. Instead of doing the three feet swap beta or the heel hook, he just put his right foot up right after reaching the first crimp and crossover to the last holds for the jump, removing half the moves on the boulder. Or when I'm projecting a problem repeatedly. However, as I considered technical heel I’m pretty new here, only been bouldering for 3-4 months now. Most shoes don't perform well on this, but some shoes (particularly the extremely strange design of the 2008 Feroce) are built for it. Nov 21, 2022 · There are few moves in the canon of climbing techniques that are as advantageous and useful as the heel hook. I don't think heel hooking is really about strength. 702 votes, 55 comments. Feb 16, 2023 · practicing the Heel Hook. Position 1: High heel – toe up. Pressure is applied outwards towards the toe and inwards towards the heel to threaten a knee (ACL) injury, the same injury a climber would sustain from a climbing heel hook. You want to use heel hooks to keep yourself balanced while you work up your other feet / hands. Posted by u/olafminesaw - 3 votes and 10 comments I have normal volume feet in the front but my heels are skinny. Your whole leg should rotate out, so your foot ends up being perpendicular to the wall. Then practice the foot hooks with that rope. It’s the type of move that can bump beginner climbers to intermediate, magically unlock the beta of a tricky crux, provide an incredible rest, and increase endurance on steep climbs—to name but a few. For the past few years, I've been experiencing sharp pain at the lower right side of my right knee during heel hooking. Often the inner part of my foot, the one which isn't on the ground when you're standing straight, cramps up when I heel hook, instantly throwing me off the wall. I worked on heel hooks and high feet. Go to lowes or home depot and buy like 3-5 ft of rope. I mean the heel hook looked solid, just gotta rotate the toe away from the wall. My closest gym is a bouldering gym, but I prefer rope climbing (just fyi) A few things I've noticed that help. I wear katana laces and have to really lace them tight to do anything heel hook-y. Position 3: Low heel – toe down Mar 21, 2022 · The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. The rope climb is as easy or hard as you want it to be, but if you want it to be easy, you have to learn those hooks with your feet. 02. I’ve never had much luck heel hooking in flat lasted shoes. Warm up the heel hooking motion. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Never just slap your heel on something and expect it to hold or help. If your gym doesn't happen to have any routes up that fit the description and are hard for you, make some up yourself, you don't have to stick to the gym's colours. 2. The home of Climbing on reddit. Jan 14, 2025 · Heel hooks are indeed one of the most powerful and essential techniques in climbing, particularly for sending high-difficulty boulder problems. There are 6 modules and each one has 5 or 6 classes. Hello everybody! So, basically I was wondering about your opinion on “useless” heel hooks. Combination of Climbing Techniques. On a pulling heel hook you are usually using the back of the heel and you will want to point the toe to engage the whole leg and hips. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium Weight 63-66, 65kg current Height 176cmMax pull up +57. I have tried every shoe labelled low heel volume and even downsized 2 full sizes from street shoe & so painful I can't walk, there's still dead space. I simply cannot do heel hooks with these shoes but love them for everything else. Toe hooks feel amazing and will hold for as long as your core can sustain the position thanks to the rubber that runs along the top of the shoe. Been climbing for 4 yrs. Apr 27, 2022 · Foot angles for compression heel-hooks . I stumbled across the Shaman and it seems to have a skinnier heel, when compared to the toe box. Climbs V5-6. Gotten stuck on this route which made me realize that I suck at toe hooks lol. It’s good to know where your shoe offers more friction. It looks like while going to clip the toe pushed against the wall thus pushing the heel off the hold. pushing movements + TRX compression stuff) on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and flexibility work over the weekend. 5 from Veloce and it was a good fit except when I tried a heel hook I felt my heel is coming out a from the shoe a little bit, it was also quite spacy around my heels but I've heard that Scarpa shoes are roomy in the back. Lots of good stretching ideas here, so here's a different take: do more heel hooks and frog step style moves. Knee conditioning So, I started climbing quite recently, and didnt find any use for heel hook yet. Hi all, I mostly indoor boulder grades V4 to V5+ (and occasionally V6). I like to do progressively harder heel hook contractions if I can find appropriate jugs. Heel hook performance. Place with care Frog pose. There is so much padding and I can crank on my heel with 100% effort without worrying about my shoe popping off my foot. I think the best training for climbing is climbing. But on the other hand you don’t want the tightness to hinder your climbing. Heel hook can also be used along with the flagging technique, especially in extreme cases where the placement of the heel is quite high up. Heel placement is just as important as being able to recognize a heel-hook opportunity. Try to integrate those types of moves as much as possible into the way you do your easy warm up climbs and even moderate climbs, though it might set you back at first. The back of my knee often hurts the next day. The foot chip out to the right looks like it would leave you too scrunched if you tried to place a food there to move the left hand up (even as a deadpoint it would probably be a pretty hard move for the grade). 159 votes, 17 comments. There's a lot to be said for knowing when to heel hook and when to toe hook (and when to toe-in on a chip/edge)-- but for the most part I see then as only like 20% overlapping. I'd always rather have more options than less. Also, you're saying that you can't generate 'power' off a heel hook, and here you're trying to perform a dynamic move off one. On more vertical stuff, I often find that I just instead used a heel hook where others use a toe. 2 days ago I’ve been to my local climbing gym and did a route which starts with a right leg heel hook. Now reteaching myself the "correct" movement. The comments pointing that out have since been deleted but wanted to see everyone’s opinion on proper heel hook technique and what to avoid. As far as the heel hooks go, I’ve been in both situations where I’m climbing dead-vertical and overhung routes. There’s so many performance shoes, you might’ve just got the wrong one for your foot. From my point of view it looked like good place to use it, but it hasnt really worked out. Proof stands in some of the world’s most famous 9a boulder problems where heel hooking is crucial: You can heel hook both with the back area of the heel and with the side of the heel. Start by using heel hooks wherever possible, and remember to point the toes outward and engage the hips to bring your center of gravity closer to the wall. Just to note, this isn't a shoe problem, it has happened while wearing both really loose and really tight shoes. Don’t downsize unless toe or heel is bagging out. Probably core/abdominal strength, but it could also be lats (the higher you can pull up and stay locked off the lower the heel hook will be relative to your hips), or finger strength (the fingers are what transfers the strength of all your other muscles to the holds, a deficiency in finger strength will show up everywhere). And yes we are scared of falling. 85 votes, 27 comments. So get tight-ish, shoes that don't hurt, but also doesn't leave much room, you'll regret it on your heel hooks. This severely impacts my heel hook performance as the shoe flexes and moves around. With the overhung routes I’m usually never afraid of falling off in a heel hook. Posted by u/damnregistering - 1 vote and 17 comments Heel hook performance - edging for heels? I usually try to find a crimp to fold my heel out on and sit on it. Now I’m done I’m wondering what types of climbs/boulders actually suit those of us with long limbs? About 11 weeks ago I injured my hamstring doing a heel hook. 5/ 188%bw (on beastmaker jugs)One arm pull up on both hands with The heel cup feels so comfortable and it's a vacuum seal when it comes to heel hooking. lower volume heel, wider foot with a nice height in the toebox to not make toe hooks painful so maybe those are worth a shot How should leg work be programmed with climbing and antagonist work? Right now I do climbing specific training (i. I went back in once and had shockwave therapy done and went back to climbing very easy grades about 2 weeks after the incident (was told this was ok). Like taking off my shoes. For roof type climbing in particular I have found / taught myself, to place my feet for the toe hook with often fully bent legs, and then to kinda lean into the toe hook from that position while being as controlled is possible. Etc. EDIT: Oh, so that's actually the beta Simon Lorenzi used! The best fit I found was the Scarpa Veloce, since I have wide feet it is really comfy. The only solutions for this problem that I had previously thought of were (a) change the way you pull with your heel such that slippage doesn’t happen, or (b) get a shoe with a better fitting heel. smearing (aretes) - how firm is the heel cup on a slopey hook? Brooke talked to Katie before posting her Box V15 downgrade, says they're both very chill (unlike the internet) As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a tight and uncomfortable heel hook. and the other La Sportiva. I'm 4'11 and not a fan of dynos, so I feel the pain that even stretchy moves for 5'2 person are out of reach for me. Im actively searching for opportunities to utilize it, so I can just get a feel for it and get a sense when to use them. Still a bit steep at $200 so I'm going to wait for some actual reviews but It doesn't feel scammy to me I've always used heel hooks a lot and I've never really had problems with them hurting, but in the last half a year, mostly on harder problems V5 and up, with more aggressive heel hooks I've noticed that often either my leg cramps up or the back of my knee hurts for a few days. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I just have freakishly narrow heels. 431 votes, 24 comments. There is a slopey toe-hook way to the left that I can just baaarely get to with a dynamic leg swing but if I was bit more flexible (and stronger) I could just slip my foot up and it would be much simpler. A twisting heel hook usually uses the side of the heel and uses a inward twisting motion of the leg and hip to hold the body up. If the heel hook isn't viable, then the dynamic move is probably the way to go. Also the start is V3-V4 but the rest is feels closer to V2-V3. I have been climbing in Butora Gomis and mostly enjoy them, but have noticed that they aren't super sticky for toe and heel hooks. I am pretty happy with my climbing progress but I definitely complain occasionally about not reaching things. If they're all as detailed as the heel hook one it might be a solid course. tl;dr: I compensated hip flexibility with lower leg rotation for years. The demo video they released on heel hooks was actually really useful. I definitely recommend going for something shaped like those, but with a better rubber. tried out a pair of shamans on the floor and on the wall and really loved them. This has been problematic since I have been getting more into climbing overhangs which have critical toe/heel hooks baked into their beta. You want a certain amount of tightness to maintain the stiffness of the sole to transfer the force from your leg into the foothold. Just like tall people complain about sit starts and in flexible people complain about high feet. Or check it out in the app stores Oh, Heel Hooks in Rock Climbing and Heel Hooks in BJJ are oddly Once you notice the heel popping off for heel hooks or the toe getting all squishy and imprecise, then you probably need to size down. They are not close together and it really makes it weird to “transfer” the feeling of how the shoe felt between stores. You should be heel hooking with the outside of your heel, so if you wear La Sportiva shoes, the logo will rub off over time from you use that to heel hook. When the heel-hook is high above you, place it with the toe pointing upward. Posted by u/Otis3333 - 319 votes and 19 comments A lot of times on precise, high-ish heel hooks, the heel of my climbing shoe begins to slip off my foot, completely ruining all pulling power. If you can't find problems with an appropriate grade, you can always modify harder problems by using extra holds that belong to other problems, or only work the parts of the problem that involve Heel hook performance.
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