Alpinesavvy extended rappel If the brake hand comes off, the autoblock immediately grabs the rope and stops the climber. Maybe it's a skinny rap ring, or maybe it's a small diameter hardware store quick link, like this example. From the top, you need to make some double rope rappels to get down. If you have a multi pitch rappel, have the first person down use the “J loop” system: tie a figure 8 on a bight in both strands and clip it to the anchor. You partner carried a lightweight 8. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it. If you're actually rock climbing in them, you may need a thinner glove with more dexterity. Apr 4, 2020 · While some people are fine with using random hardware store quick links for rappel anchors, I'm not one of them. Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. See 400+ more climbing tips like this at AlpineSavvy. With some tomfoolery (see the Reverso section below), sufficient friction can be achieved with slick ropes or a single strand. The key to making this work is what's called a rope block. Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . Pros: Sep 11, 2023 · That noted, as a double rope rappel with the Beal Backup line, the friction is sufficient with most carabiners. com/blog/the-extended-rappel-explained?format=amp See full list on mountaineers. Check it out Nov 26, 2018 · You’ve finished a long multi pitch climb, using a single 10 mm rope. Explore AlpineSavvy for 400+ tips like this. Feed 2-3 arm lengths of slack through your rappel device and auto block so your partner can get started. This is a modified figure 8 with a few extra horns on it, similar to rappel devices popular for canyoneering. Lowering can ensure the first person gets there and does not find themself dangling in space at the end of the rappel. (Note: You can buy quick links properly rated for climbing that are fine to rappel from, such as these from CAMP. Here's how to quickly rig a stout anchor that will position you in the perfect spot with a ready-made masterpoint to belay or haul. Conceptually it's pretty simple. This is one of the most common ways to set up a rappel and allows you to remain in an ergonomic position while descending. The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. Carry a friction hitch or two (especially one that slides easily like a Sterling Hollowblock) and be ready to use it. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Yell “off rappel”. Note: if you’re doing any kind of big wall climbing or going up multiple pictures of rope in a day, you’re probably going to find it more efficient to use the more traditional two jumar system. Jun 2, 2024 · So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination to “extend” it farther away from your body. ) Setting up a Rappel Device in the "Extended Rappel" Configuration. I feel like this article does a good job explaining both pros and cons of the system. traversing and/or overhanging rappel. (Note, I don’t have this device and I've not tried it. com/blog/the-extended-rappel - longer article on my website about The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy Extended Belay Rappel with an extended rappel, you can clip an auto block directly to your belay loop. Learn about the extended rappel in detail here. A pre-rigged rappel increases efficiency and (usually) reduces risk. But it has a few downsides: it’s Nov 22, 2019 · Is the anchor for a multi pitch lead belay, top rope anchor or a rappel anchor? Loads vary a LOT between these. (This is a Nov 29, 2018 · On a multi pitch rappel, a good way to do this is threading one rope end through the lower anchor and then tying the ends together to be sure the rope strands stay connected to the lower anchor. See some examples, and lear May 17, 2024 · This can allow full length rappels with less rope, weight and bulk. ) Dec 27, 2018 · The munter mule overhand, or MMO knot, is a load releasable hitch. How difficult is the pitch below or above, and what’s the skill level of the climbers? Dec 13, 2022 · Long lengths of skinny rope, such as a 6 mm rappel pull cord, can easily turn into a hopeless tangle if you're not careful. Feb 8, 2024 · Alpinesavvy thanks Angelique Brown for translating the French technical documents mentioned in this article, Richard Goldstone for editorial comments, ACMG Alpine Guide Sean Isaac for some FAQ details, and IFMGA Certified Guide Patrick Ormond for a few extra fixed point belay tips. You rappel on the full strength climbing rope, which is fixed to the anchor by the Apr 24, 2025 · The standard rappel practice of “toss-rope-with-a-knot-on-each-end-and-hope-for-the-best” usually works fine in friendly conditions. Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. If it doesn't, you're still backed up on your rappel rope. Keep your rappel device and auto block on the rope for now. Because the rappel is in front of you and elevated, the rope runs between your legs rather than over one hip. They have to be lowered, so it's a rappel for every one. Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. If you do them wrong, you could die. Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. May 17, 2024 · This can allow full length rappels with less rope, weight and bulk. The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. Go hands-free on your rappel. Apr 29, 2019 · Every climber will someday find themselves at a rappel anchor that's set with a single Less Than Ideal rappel point. Short version: If you bounce around on the rope like some special forces cowboy, you can generate between 2 and 3 kN as a temporary peak load. Yikes, your rope is too short, whaddya do? One answer: the extended rappel. If it’s a tree, make sure it’s alive, large enough to hold your weight, and Feb 15, 2024 · When doing multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by implementing a few small but significant efficiency steps. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. For a rappel extension, here we’re using a double bowline tied through the belay loop. The way we teach it is to extend the rappel and then rig an auto block on the brake strands, clipped to a carabiner on the belay loop. alpinesavvy. You toss your rope, and you see Be it challenging weather, poor conditions, route finding errors, or general loss of mojo (a. Lets you use a stacked, or pre-rigged, rappel. ) Maybe a beginner climber who’s not comfortable with rappelling. vegetation, deep cracks, or other rope eating features Check out the screen grab. Nov 25, 2018 · Here's a quote on this topic from “The Mountain Guide Manual” by Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo (pg 243): “Because of all the dynamic aspects to a crevasse fall - climbers sliding on the snow surface and the rope and bending over and cutting into the lip - it is becoming acceptable to use static rope. If you see that the first few An extended rappel makes this method safer, because you do not need to unclip your rappel carabiner as described below in method B. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. Plus, it’s inexpensive. But maybe for 90% of the things you do in the snow, like digging snow pits, brushing snow off the tent, approach hiking, racking your gear, excavating your car, snowball fights, walking the dog, etc . An extended rappel also makes it easier to pre-rig a rappel– see this excellent post from Alpine Savvy for more on that. If you anticipate doing multiple rappels on a seldom climbed route, and weight is not a huge concern, you might want to bring a couple. The set up shown below, with one single runner, is one of various ways to Jul 7, 2023 · You may not know exactly the distance to the next anchors. A – Anchor: Confirm that the anchor is strong. Tie a hard back up/catastrophe knot a few meters below in both strands, and clip it to your belay loop with a locker. Jan 7, 2019 · A low risk and fast way to do this is to rig an extended rappel with both climbers doing so at the same time. This device is rated for ropes from 6mm to 9. May 18, 2024 · I don’t tend to use an extended rap every time, but I do use it some. A good bounce on a static tether puts about 3x your body weight onto the anchor. If after doing this they add a third hand autoblock under their device, both strands of the rope are essentially locked in place. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. It won’t last through the day, but it’s going to make setting up all your subsequent rappels faster and easier. This is pretty hard to describe in words, so check out the diagram below. Let's have a closer look. Feb 15, 2022 · Note that in this case, with a double rope rappel, you’re casting the middle of the rope, not the ends. CAMP (Italy) sell CE rated quick links that are the right sizes, right price, and insanely strong. Remember where it is; you might need it on the way down. There is a right (and definitely a wrong) way to rappel with a heavy haul bag. A daisy chained rope is pretty much impossib Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . low angle. Yes, we hate to leave gear behind, but if you HAVE to leave your beloved #3 Camalot for a rappel anchor, then do it without hesitation. Bottom line - tuck away your hair, beard, pack straps, hoodie strings, dreadlocks, and any stray clothing whenever you rappel, extended rap or not. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. There's a weight (lure) on the end. 3,469 likes, 85 comments - alpinesavvy on May 7, 2023: "Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Please, never consider doing this and always leave behind a $5 carabiner instead. Aug 9, 2019 · Step 2 - The first person ties into the end of the rope, and then lowers themselves through their rappel device to the rappel anchor on the cliff edge. Here's a complete article on it. https://www. k. This lets you use either hand as needed. Friction Hitch Rappel Backup Adding a friction hitch to the rope above or below your rappel device is the best backup. When you do this for the first time, you might actually amaze yourself, because it’s so fast and easy, it almost seems like a magic trick. Rescue/retreat situation, when you tie two ropes together to descend a long way as quickly as possible, leaving the ropes in place to hopefully get later or be tossed by another team. The line is carefully spooled on the reel. You get to the rappel spot, which requires two raps on a single rope to get down to safe ground. For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. Feb 16, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices. (Scroll to the bottom to see one possible solution if you come across anchor bolts with no hardware. Solution: the daisy chain. However, unless you have Oct 18, 2019 · A rappel extension is not required for this carabiner brake, but it's good practice to use one, so we're showing it. Feb 27, 2025 · Consider shorter rappels. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. It gives the rappeller more space to hold the brake strands, as well as reducing the force needed to slow/stop the rappel. Extending your rappel device so it’s not directly on your belay loop is a good idea for many reasons, which we cover in this tip. This puts the weight of the pig on the rappel carabiner, and not on you. It's faster, because the moment one person is off rappel Alpine Savvy - Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap Jan 7, 2019 · When you’re in this situation, and have multiple rappels, put a temporary middle mark on your rope with a strip of tape. Extended rappel so that the auto block doesn’t get all tangled in the belay device. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. While it can be helpful in advanced rope rescue scenarios, it’s not required in crevasse rescue, and in the opinion of various experts, does not need to be taught to beginners. ) Premium Art Oct 22, 2021 · The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. (Then you probably need to do the #CraftyRopeTrick of an extended rappel, which we cover in this article. Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. Let's be clear on one thing: this is no time to be a cheapskate. Oct 20, 2023 · If you use any of the ideas or information presented here, you acknowledge that the technique may be inaccurate or out of date, and you agree that Alpinesavvy LLC is not responsible or liable for any injury (or worse) that might result from you using the techniques presented here. Feb 2, 2019 · A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. 5mm rope in her pack, and you now need to use it to make your long rappels. You get the idea. Use them for just about any kind of connection to the anchor, clip two adjacent loops, make a rappel extension, whatever, it's going to be bomber no matter where you clip it. And a couple of ways not to. One useful feature is that it can be extended under load, which makes it handy for knot passing and other rescue-type stuff. Feb 19, 2021 · If you rappel a lot, you may wear through the palm. Here are a few simple ways to make a redundant connection when rigging to rappe Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . 3) This method is trickier on a free hanging rappel, as this makes it harder to unweight the rope to unclip the sling. The set up shown below, with one single runner, is one of various ways to Sep 22, 2024 · Stay on rappel and bounce test the anchor. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Aug 4, 2020 · The Petzl Tibloc, an ultralight emergency ascender, is a very handy piece of gear. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popular tether system, using a short bit of dynamic rope and some clever hardware. Jan 14, 2019 · An extended rappel makes this method safer, because you do not need to unclip your rappel carabiner as described below in method B. Step 3 - After securing themselves with a leash/lanyard to the anchor, the first person ties the end of the rope and a loop of the rope into the rappel anchor, fixing the two strands. The knot is on the left side of the anchor, so they are pulling the purple May 15, 2025 · 1 - Cast, don’t throw, your rappel rope. ) Sep 19, 2018 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. taped gate carabiner, a quicklink, and a rappel ring that’s actually tied through the cord, instead of being girth hitched. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. This can be done with a knot or a carabiner. Again, like the quicklink, rings are something that you probably don’t need on every alpine climb. Mar 8, 2023 · I also have basically all the different options and (1) use the pink Beal Dynaloop for anchoring at the top of a sketchy stance to set up topropes on bolts, (2) got the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust for long series of rappels after multi-pitch, but (3) generally just use the girth-hitched 120cm Dyneema - paying attention to avoid shock loading Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system. Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2 Dec 23, 2018 · 3) “Rappel Z” with an extended rappel. 5mm. ) Oct 13, 2024 · Here's the scenario: You're at the top of a 100 meter cliff. Don't be tempted to depart from your route to go towards a retreat anchor that someone else Jun 1, 2023 · Notes . Also, learn some specialized crafty rappel tricks if you have a traverse or overhang. (Harness and third hand / autoblock not shown for clarity. Dec 27, 2021 · When tethering to a rappel anchor, it can be comforting to know that you’re connected to both “halves” of the anchor hardware instead of just one; especially true at a hanging stance or with questionable anchor hardware. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Well, good news. Look for fixed gear on the way up. Fall on an overhang or traverse, and are hanging in space or in unclimbable terrain. Mar 16, 2025 · Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. You rappel on the full strength climbing rope, which is fixed to the anchor by the Jan 10, 2019 · What’s a pre-rigged rappel? It’s when everyone on the climbing team (or, as many of them as can comfortably fit near the anchor) attaches to the rope at the same time with an extended rappel. Rappel situation down terrain where at least one person on the team can safely downclimb. Nov 23, 2024 · Here’s one method to rappel past a damaged section of the rope. This great diagram from Petzl shows a few of them. Sometimes I’ll use it to pre-rig my groups rappel, but I’ll always use it for a free-hanging rap. Dec 31, 2018 · If your rappel ends on the ground, make it the task of the first person down to untie both of the knots. Maybe the human anchor stays in position and have people start rappelling, while another person starts rigging an anchor Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. Be wary of the “bail trail”. On your next vertical camping trip, use a “big wall bucket” with a Gamma lid to keep delicate items from getting crushed, and to keep day use gear close at hand. Jan 9, 2019 · Modern “personal leashes”, such as the Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS), are made of connected full strength loops. When properly placed, it’s impossible for the hardware to come off of the cord. Let your autoblock take your weight. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. A friction hitch backup, a firefighter’s belay, or the use of an assisted braking device. But, if you have any one or combination of these potential rappel problems: high winds. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. . When you rappel smoothly, the load to the anchor is pretty much your body weight. For the complete article: 1) Go here: Feb 7, 2019 · With just a Petzl Grigri and an ascender, you can quickly and safely ascend and descend a fixed rope. Jun 14, 2019 · Even though you have a 60 meter rope, you decide to keep the rappels short, because you’re concerned about rope induced rock fall, lots of friction making for a strenuous pull, or the rope getting stuck. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popul" Jun 2, 2024 · Bottom line - tuck away your hair, beard, pack straps, hoodie strings, dreadlocks, and any stray clothing whenever you rappel, extended rap or not. Try to avoid tossing one big coil of a rappel rope and hoping it's going to pay out smoothly down the cliff face. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. For the complete article: 1) Go here: 3 days ago · If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, here's a simple technique that allows you to ascend the rope, covered in this article. Optional but recommended: test pull. The extended sling allows the people waiting to rap to be connected to the rope, but not be yanked A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. Note that you need to attach the autoblock to the leg loop, and it might also add an unnecessary extra amount of friction and cluster. ) Rigging an extended rappel (not shown) or using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device is a fine idea, because both of these can be easily converted to an ascending system if needed, as we cover here and here. Now, the stopper nuts or no longer needed. Learn all about the Tibloc, starting with how to properly pronounce it! Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. Apr 6, 2023 · Stuck rappel rope (need to ascend it and fix the problem, yikes!) Rappel down too far and miss your next anchor. Sep 1, 2021 · The sharp edge might damage your rope, and if you rappel, the extra friction might make it impossible to pull your rope down. com/blog/the-extended-rappel - longer article on my website about Jul 23, 2022 · They report that it can be downclimbed, but it's spicy - and might be better for the newbies to rappel. You don't need them anymore. Easier to rig your rappel device correctly, especially if you have on lots of clothing Jul 22, 2019 · You top out on a pitch, and see a perfect tree anchor 10 feet back from the edge. You have one 80 meter rope. Go up the rope to deal with an injured/scared partner Oct 14, 2019 · 2) Rappel extension. You and your partner are rappelling with a single rope. 5 - It makes the rappel more ambidextrous. Be it challenging weather, poor route conditions, route finding errors, or just general loss of mojo, there can be lots of valid reasons to turn around on an alpine route. The extended rappel means climbers can check each other, which reduces risk. Aug 29, 2018 · If you’re trying to pass a knot on a completely free hanging rappel, things get more complicated. There are lots of different ways to rig it, and one quick and easy one is with your locker draw. Learn how it works, along with some cautionary notes. Yo, be careful! Sharp knives and ropes under tension can be a very bad combination, so it's probably better to try the method above before you use an open blade. While secure on the rappel ropes, clip your tether into the masterpoint, and give it a few good bounces. Think of casting a fishing line. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. org Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Mar 3, 2021 · First rappeler arrives at the lower anchor. Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. Can't make the moves and need to do some rope climbing to get past the hard part. And, as mentioned above, using a third hand /autoblock backup is usually good practice, but it's not shown here for clarity. A rope block allows the rope to move through the anchor in one direction but not the other. Mar 26, 2020 · First person rappelling goes on rappel, single strand, blue rope. “ambition exceeding ability”), there can be lots of valid reasons to turn aro Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . Increases efficiency: the moment the first person is down the second person can start. (Yep, you might make an extra rappel or two, but that is far preferable to having a stuck rope. Standard practice would be to have everyone rappel on two strands to the next station, and then have everyone rappel again to get to the ground. a. Jul 5, 2023 · You and your partner have a 60 meter rope, but you need to make a rappel that was bolted for a 70 meter rope. Leave a minimum of gear behind. This “crochets” a rope into a series of short chain links, reducing the length by about a factor of six. It may The “pre-rigged" (aka stacked) rappel . If it holds, good. Stop a short distance above the damaged rope strand. May 7, 2023 · Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . BCEP recommends rappelling using the extended rappel configuration. Doing two shorter rappels, using natural protection is going to preserve more gear than one long one. Building any kind of rappel anchor with your own gear; after all, you’re a proud and frugal dirtbag climber! Dec 6, 2022 · Another rappel device option is the Edelrid Mago 8. You may be tempted to get out your knife and try to cut away the problem. Dec 27, 2018 · R – Rappel Device/Ropes: Check that the carabiner attached to your device is locked, both strands of the rope have been loaded correctly in the device, and the rope is properly threaded through the rappel anchor. Jan 8, 2024 · An extended rappel offers many benefits over rappelling from the belay loop on your harness. Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Watch the video for a scary moment of what can happen if you don't! Oct 19, 2018 · Scenario: You’re descending a route with a team of four, and you have one rope. Apr 3, 2025 · This has a few applications in self rescue, rope ascending, rigging mechanical advantage systems, adjusting rescue litters, and impressing your knot-nerd pals. But, the strand you pull can make a difference in avoiding snags. Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. For the complete article: 1) Go here: alpinesavvy. Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. Aug 11, 2018 · Canyoning, where it’s common to rappel on a single strand. This means that everyone in your group has their rappel device on a shoulder length runner, and they are all attached to the rope at one time. com . Clip tether to anchor. Oct 24, 2018 · You can cut it up and leave it for rappel anchors. Most of the time it won't. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Nov 27, 2018 · Another approach to expediting a group rappel is to have everyone use an extended rappel, and do what's called a “pre-rig”. This has the advantage of working with an autoblock backup, if you choose to use it. Please view the "Rock Climbing: How to Rappel" video by REI below. Here, the backup knot is tied below the brake hand rather than above it. Newbies rappel off the human anchor and best climber goes last. Because they both rig for rappel at the same time, and also increases speed, because the second can begin their rap the moment the first person is at the next If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25 Anchors 2, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25. You toss your rope, and you see The extended rappel, explained — Alpinesavvy. (This is similar to a rescue style “spider” rappel, when you might have to rap with an injured partner. Peak force on a rappel anchor, 2-3 kN; theoretical max force on a lead anchor, about 9kN. Apr 10, 2019 · Do you need to fix a rope and have a stout tree available? Lucky you - this is probably the simplest and strongest anchor you could ever build. You can rig it “bunny ears” style, to utilize anchors that are very far apart. Learn about this and a few other Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT) to make your next rappel have a happy ending. The two climbers are doing a multipitch double rope rappel. The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. All are plenty strong and inexpensive. Oct 1, 2020 · Using a rappel extension is a good idea for a lot of reasons, which we cover in detail here. Mar 2, 2025 · Have each rappel anchor simple to build and easily strong enough to rappel on. Nov 17, 2018 · A rappel ring is a round, smooth ring, made of aluminum or steel. Still, in a standard setup, a single strand rappel on any of the common skinny lines is a terrible option. Nov 11, 2018 · Here are three much more secure options for alpine rappel hardware: the cheapskate locker, a. Oct 24, 2018 · Building multiple rappel anchors with your own gear, where you may need to conserve your equipment and want to leave only a single carabiner behind at the anchor. Just watch the sap on those pine trees . May 9, 2023 · If you're on some ultra-steep or reachy sport route that requires extended quickdraws, here are some ways to do it. is there broad consensus on the better or safer method of rappelling? Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. You typically would add a friction hitch or ascender above the knot, weight that, remove your rappel device and reattach it below the knot, unweight the friction hitch / ascender, remove it, and continue rappelling. Dec 12, 2023 · The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, is a technique where both partners rig their rappel device at the same time, usually with an extension. There are only two anchors: one at the top and one at 50 meters. Take an extra minute or so, properly flake your rope, cast a weight like a “rope bomb” rather than hucking off 30 meters in a huge coil, and your chances of a cluster-free rappel are much better. Takeaway: rappel smoothly without bouncing to minimize force on the anchor. In addition to connecting quickdraws like this, you could also use a 60 or 120 cm sling. Jan 26, 2019 · Most climbers don’t give much thought as to which strand of the rope they pull after a rappel. 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" Feb 16, 2019 · For a heavy bag, you essentially put the bag on rappel, and then attach yourself somewhere to that system. Because they both rig for rappel at the same time, and also increases speed, because the second can begin their rap the moment the first person is at the next Jun 7, 2024 · The extended rappel, explained Join my email - get a Premium Article sampler I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. Oct 16, 2020 · Another approach, which can further increase speed and reduce risk, is for the second climber with the plaquette belay device to use an extended rappel and pre-rig their device on the rope. \bThere are are lots of crafty ways to use it that may be new to you, and also some common mistakes you want to avoid. com/instagram 1) Google: "alpinesavvy extended rappel”. Add a friction hitch above your rappel device. Why might you want to use a rappel extension? Easier to use a third hand / autoblock backup. ryrjhbzdfgnnxjtjeemgocujvhuoiqtyocffkazilinytxgmknvx