Alpine savvy aid climbing ladder Dec 15, 2020 · Left: Aid ladder clipped to the racking carabiner of the cam. Rainier National Park made a clever decision matrix to help remove some emotion from this important choice. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. In fact, you may find the Yates tether actually works a little better, because it's easy to release under tension, while the Petzl one is not, at least for me. Set up your ledge on a real cliff and spend a night in it, not just in a backyard tree. Climb the ladder until you can clip your fifi to the stopper wire on the top An essential webbing ladder for aid climbing. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. The Alfifi - adjustable tether for big wall climbing A adjustable tether / lanyard that lets you change the the length when weighted is VERY handy for aid climbing. Because you are clipped into a closed loop, there's no way you can slide off the end. This secondary anchor can be SOLID gear you place, or a bolt. Sure, those super long extendable fiberglass poles with some fancy carabiner-grabber-thingie on t Sep 9, 2018 · Even if you’re climbing an aid route cleanly, meaning without a hammer, having a “beak” style piton can come in very handy. ) Premium Art Mar 7, 2015 · We touch on bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, alpine climbing, big wall climbing, aid climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, and mixed climbing. This looks like the rope is getting twisted as it goes through the pulley. Just a few aid moves may be all that is needed to reach a summit or a safer descent. Each TEAR-AID® Repair Patch is made from an exceptionally tough, matte finish, abrasion resistant, elastomer that resists puncture and tearing. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. The plan is for you to lead the aid pitch, fix the rope, and have your partner ascend the fixed rope and clean the gear in standard aid climbing technique . The ¾" Alpine Aider features classic, staggered, triangular step construction. com for 400+ tips like this. Apr 24, 2025 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. It was a top rope, where the loads were going to be low. Mar 8, 2024 · Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. So get a rope, 2 prusiks, a few carabiners and a pulley if you have it, and follow along. 1 - Place some gear, clip a single aid ladder to the gear, and stand in the second step with either foot; for this example, your left. Apr 6, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. They are top quality, durable in the right places, and very lightweight. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Royal Robbins resting on his aiders during the 3rd pitch of the FA of the Salathé Wall (VI 5. But, many people it tricky; the “rabbit coming out of the hole and running around the tree” thing is not as easy as it might sound. Support WMR: Click before you buy at REI and Backcountry Oct 21, 2019 · Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. For body weight only. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Apr 12, 2022 · From first-timers to elite climbers, we can all always find new ways to push our limits and improve. Hopefully this will help if you're new to rope rescue, or to dust off this skill if it’s been awhile. Not a PAS style with sewn loops, rated to 22+ kN, but one made for aid climbing, with sewn pockets that are rated around 2-4 kN. Biothane™ step stiffeners ensure that the steps always stay open. (184 g) Strength: End-to-end: 18 kN (4050 lbf), Steps: 4. Now you can easily transfer your weight on to the gear, which lets you unclip your quickdraw and/or the rope. Founder Kyle Willis designs and sews small batch made-in-USA products for alpine and big wall climbing, much of it from re-purposed fabrics. For the complete article: 1) see link in Bio, Jul 30, 2018 · Steri-Strips, a cross between a band-aid and a suture, are narrow strips of super strong first aid tape that really stick to skin and are used to close cuts in place of a suture. Sep 12, 2020 · DIY - Make a “cheater” quickdraw . Aug 4, 2020 · There is a small hole in the Tibloc to add one. Adjustable tethers have been Jan 6, 2019 · The carabiners on the business end of your aid ladders will probably become your single most used piece of hardware. com . Jul 30, 2018 · A good rule of thumb in climbing is to never let anything hang below your knees. Clip it higher if you can. May 10, 2025 · Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. Note: Not all carabiners fit in the Kong Slyde. 6 moves can be surprisingly terrifying. After you know these two clever tips from big wall expert Chris Lightweight aid ladder for easy aid, speed attempts and alpine routes. If you do them wrong, you could die. 9 C2). Olle makes soft good for aid climbing, big walls and some industrial use. if you're not using a girth hitch and using a double loop bowline tether, it's okay to tie it through your belay loop with any kind of material. Jan 7, 2019 · Using the backside of the leader’s clove hitch is a great way to transition from climbing to descending. May 15, 2024 · If you're big wall / aid climbing, the tie in points are usually better, because that gets your waist a bit closer to the gear you're clipped to. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. Sep 17, 2022 · Racking your aid ladders . Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery Jun 21, 2019 · The climbing rangers at Mt. Knowledge of aid techniques can also provide a way to safely move up or down a crag in an emergency. Apr 13, 2022 · Climb the ladder below until you can’t go any higher. 4-aug-2020 - Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. All climbers need proper training and equipment, and to take personal responsibility for their choices. This translates to ultra-caution in all parts of your hauling system and interaction with bags, haul lines, docking cords, and pulleys. I have a topic suggestion for your first aid section: the dreaded screaming barfies. Mar 16, 2025 · I’m enjoying your regular climbing tips, as always. A spreader bar is a stiff, robust bar typically made of plastic that is attached below the clip-in point of a ladder style aider. Jan 5, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. It's also quite expensive, and you definitely don't want to drop it. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Sep 8, 2018 · Are you feeling “height challenged” on some sport climbing routes, stretching on your tiptoes to clip that just-out-of-reach bolt? How about aid climbing on a bolt or rivet ladder, where you’re sure the first ascensionist must’ve been Wilt Chamberlain’s big brother, because the dang bolts seem like they're 6 feet apart? Jul 27, 2024 · Here’s a DIY gear hack that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Feb 2, 2025 · I once came across an anchor that another climbing party had set up with a sewn pocket daisy chain. or, pretty straightforward if you have the proper gear and technique. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. Our unique Pocket Aider is also u-shaped and conveniently stores away in attached pouch to prevent tangling. . Note these are all my personal preferences; consider it a starting point. Learn Jan 1, 2018 · After you have the basics of a 2:1, 3:1 and 6:1 hauling system dialed, rope geeks and mechanical advantage fans might want to learn some more esoteric rigging. But, if you can't find it there, check out Peakbagger. . Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi ihook to an adjustable tether. As a result, you are usually spending most of your time in aiders on a big wall route. Alpine climbing, where you might be using single gear loops on the waist belt of a backpack, or a shaved down alpine harness that only has two loops Multi pitch routes, where the back of your harness might have a few extras like windbreaker, water bottle, shoes for the hike off, etc. Jun 25, 2020 · Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. It's pretty much a one person job. It helps to actually put your foot in the sling and step (gently) on the bar tacks, to keep them in the right place and put a bit of tension on the sling as Dec 17, 2018 · Another option is to clip an ascender with a stirrup of webbing or an aid ladder onto the Z cord, and pump down on the Z cord with your leg. Having a metal point on the anchor prevents the ropes from sawing and damaging it, and makes the ropes easier to pull. Aid climbing traces its origins to the start of all climbing, with ladders used on historic ascents such as the 1492 ascent of Mont Aiguille, the 1786 ascent of Mont Blanc, or the 1893 ascent of Devils Tower, and with drilled bolts on historic ascents such as the 1875 first ascent of Half Dome. Explore AlpineSavvy. Don’t use a sewn loop daisy chain as a personal tether . Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. Good news: there’s a “stealth” built-in spot to thread a thin keeper cord. Sep 20, 2018 · This is great for showing both the climbing route and point features such as water sources, good campsites, important trail junctions, etc. Generally, it's best practice to have all team members clip to a knot with a locking carabiner, rather than tying the rope through the harness. Dec 1, 2023 · This makes many different aspects of aid climbing faster and more efficient, such as top stepping, cleaning traverses, and even leading without connections to your ladders. May 24, 2019 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. It looks a lot like a bird head, hence some of the clever names: Toucan, Tomahawk, Pecker etc. Practice vertical rope techniques with a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. ) Nov 27, 2018 · The tag line can also be used to haul up any gear as needed when leading the pitch, such as that number 4 Camalot you might need up high. The ascender is stopped about 3-4 inches below the carabiner. This is simply a 15 (or so) foot doubled length of 8 mm (or 7 mm) cord that’s used to tie a munter hitch plus a “barber pole” wrap to the anchor that can be easily released, even under full tension. Sep 29, 2019 · Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Dec 12, 2024 · Rebelays have long been used by cavers, who know how to take good care of fixed ropes. This bar keeps the sides of the ladder from collapsing against the sides of the foot when the ladder is weighted. Sep 1, 2021 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. WIN Montane T-shirt & Shorts Discover New Arrivals Oct 2024 giveaway: Kaf Adventures online sport climbing class Winner: Julian H (the Netherlands) Sept 2024 giveaway: Three copies of “The Freedom of the Hills” , new 10th edition The Pocket Aider is a lightweight, 5-step, ladder-style aider that stores compactly in an attached pouch. Is this standard practice? Absolutely not! Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. The cord I like is a simply 5 or 6 mm cord, about 15 feet / 5 meters. When you find a good one, buy two, because you need one for each aider. If the leader needs gear sent up and they are more than 30 meters up and have a 60 meter tag line, their partner can use the haul rope to extend the tag line, and then can retrieve the tagline back down. Jun 16, 2022 · Here's how to do it. Remember to aid climb like you free climb; use your hands in the crack or rock features to step up; don’t just pull on your aiders or gear. 159 views, 1 likes, 0 loves, 2 comments, 0 shares, Facebook Watch Videos from Alpine Savvy: See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy . Reinforced steps for ease; 25mm (1in) webbing with reinforced clip-in and ballast point Racking your aid ladders . Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. Oct 19, 2018 · You’re taking a friend on Monkey Face at Smith Rock. This is easier if you don’t use a tether on your Feb 17, 2020 · Aid climbing through a roof can be insanely awkward and strenuous . So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. This gives you room to move the ascender up, down, or remove it from the rope and reattach it above the carabiner you need to clean, a common cleaning tactic on traverses like this. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. If rock climbing, you can keep it much smaller. Functionally the same as two lockers, gives a nice smooth lower, and maybe puts the wear and tear on less expensive ovals instead of your more $$ locking carabiners. Spreaders make ladders more comfortable to stand in for extended periods of time. Weight: 6. When free climbing, the gear is just for protection. Aid Climbing is done with climbers using different pieces of gear to assist them with making it to the top of the route. Reinforced steps for ease; 25mm (1in) webbing with reinforced clip-in and ballast point Apr 10, 2020 · Need to do some improvised aid climbing to get past a tough section of rock? When the summit is more important than style points, here's how to quickly tie an improvised aid ladder out of a double Alpine Savvy - Need to do some improvised aid climbing to Many alpine routes have sections that, in poor weather, may be impossible without using aid. 689 views, 9 likes, 1 comments, 0 shares, Facebook Reels from Alpine Savvy: Don’t use a sewn loop daisy chain as a personal tether . Pop the fifi, ta Dec 1, 2023 · This makes many different aspects of aid climbing faster and more efficient, such as top stepping, cleaning traverses, and even leading without connections to your ladders. Note the redirect pulley (orange) with an integrated swivel, smaller diameter static Z cord, a cable quick draw (zero stretch) and a Petzl Basic ascender. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. 3 mm climbing cord, or my favorite, bank line (in photo) would be good choices. Feb 7, 2019 · As with any climbing skill, this is a better show than a tell. Slight improvement, but let's see if we can get a little higher. Jun 23, 2019 · Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Not ideal, you're losing about 8 inches of reach. May 20, 2024 · We used them on aid-intensive walls, on light and fast alpine missions, and in support of big wall free climbing ascents. Good ladders are made by Yates, Fish Gear, and Metolius. May 2, 2022 · Ladders. Most climbers prefer more symmetrical style ladders rather than those with alternating steps on either side. Kong has it in the “aid climbing” category on their website, but I think it’s better as a personal tether. May 27, 2019 · Aid to free transition #2 - Use a ladder as a sling. Oct 24, 2018 · Taped biners are more useful than quick links since you can also use them for climbing, and they are less likely to be stolen by the next team. Does it seem Feb 27, 2025 · Carry a knife, so you can cut up your cordage (or maybe even an end off your climbing rope) to make an anchor. Reinforced steps for ease; 25mm (1in) webbing with reinforced clip-in and ballast point Feb 22, 2023 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. With a girth hitch, the cam hook is ready to use fast when you need it, but is easily removed when you don't. After climbing for 15 years, veterinarian turned pro climber Heather Weidner, the instructor for Climbing Magazine’s Intro to Sport Climbing course, constantly strives to push her boundaries. May 20, 2024 · Aiders are the key differentiator between aid climbing and free climbing. Remove ladder from bottom quickdraw and clip it to to the top carabiner of the upper quickdraw. If your personal ethics allow it (and mine definitely do), stick clips are great. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Sep 17, 2022 · Racking your aid ladders . Black Diamond Alpine Aider Climbing Ladder Black Diamonds lightweight aid ladder for alpine climbing routes and speed attempts. In fact, once you put a load on it, the pulley and ascender line up quite nicely. Right: Aid ladder clipped directly into the wire loop. The 8-step ladder has u-shaped steps for demanding, technical aid. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. Nov 2, 2022 · Pro tip: If you're doing an alpine start, rig your your rope with knots and coils the night before. Unlike a fall in rock climbing, where in many cases the fallen climber can simply be lowered to safety, a crevasse fall usually requires the rescuer to work against gravity. Feb 17, 2020 · They show it using their nifty Petzl “Evolv Adjust” adjustable tether designed for aid climbing, but any sort of adjustable tether, such as the popular Yates, will work. See 350+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. Racking your aid ladders . Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. Here's one of them, the 3:1 Spanish Burton. Clip a carabiner onto the ladder pretty much anywhere, and clip the lead rope into that as protection. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Our standard triangular shape comes with 4 or 5 steps and the Alpine is a lightweight version of the 4-step with ¾" web. Aug 25, 2022 · A few words on hauling, from big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick: “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Unclip your fifi from the lower placement and clip to the upper quickdraw (or tether if needed). Warning: Climbing is dangerous. It can make cleaning sharply traversing pitches, roofs or short pendulums a LOT easier. Aug 27, 2020 · The Petzl Micro Traxion is an efficient, compact, progress capture pulley popular with many climbers and rigging professionals. Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Choose them carefully. Favored by aid and big wall climbers, aid ladders tend to have wider steps which are generally reinforced with extra stitching and material to handle the several hours of daily abuse that big walls require. Clip ladder to the gear. Sep 9, 2018 · Using a designated lower out cord like this can be especially helpful when climbing with folks relatively new to aid climbing, who may not have the more advanced following / cleaning skills. A rebelay is simply adding an additional anchor(s) below the potential abrasion point. 1,911 likes. In theory, this means with a 3:1 system, one unit of input force (that’s you pulling on the rope) results in three units of output force that gets applied to the load. It's one less thing to do at 0:dark:30 by headlamp when you're sleepy. 3M makes them, so you know the adhesive is good stuff. Setting up the ledge is generally best done by one person. Our team of climbers helps break down nuanced differences between options, examining key considerations like climbing comfort, ladder stability, ease of top-stepping, and durability. Good rule of thumb, if you add cord to improve an existing anchor, remove the oldest piece(s) and take it with you. Several of their products cross over well to alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. Check it out Feb 3, 2019 · Here's a step-by-step walk-through. Need to do some improvised aid climbing to get past a tough section of rock? When the summit is more important than style points, here's how to quickly tie an improvised aid ladder out of a double When aid climbing, the transition from your nice comfy aider steps into free climbing a few 5. Feb 27, 2019 · Aid ladders always seem to be trying to trip you up. Mar 1, 2023 · from the Tear-Aid website: “TEAR-AID® Repair Patches provide a simple and easy method of patching holes and tears, as well as an excellent protective film solution. (Monkey Face bolt Oct 21, 2022 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Etriers (or Aiders, and more properly étriers) are tape ladders used in aid climbing, generally in conjunction with a fifi hook apiece. Step up in your ladder, start free climbing, and simply leave the ladder behind. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. It is a great tool for mixed free and aid or alpine routes where the aid gear only comes out for a few pitches. Center: Aid ladder clipped to the sling. If you're using it for winter or snow climbing when you might have gloves, make the cord loop fairly large. Check out these great diagrams from Petzl on how to do it, and learn some ways to practice before you get on the real stone. Place a piece as high as you can. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. My new favorite ladders, featured here, are made by Aideer Big Wall Gear from Sweden. Works nicely as a top rope master point, using three snapgate ovals opposite and opposed. Put the sewn part on the “bottom” of one half of the sling. Despite access to solid weather forecasts, deciding to continue on a climb or bail is often a challenging and subjective decision. The bar tacks cause the sling to open up a bit when it's hanging, making it easier to step into. Feb 2, 2022 · Ladder aiders are so named because of their shape: 2 parallel sides with horizontal steps between them. Using any type of gear, or “aid” for anything other than protection against falling, removes the accomplishment of free climbing a route, and the climb is considered aid climbing. Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've Dec 16, 2018 · Here's one for the aid climbers, who are likely to have a pulley and an ascender. Here’s another way to rig this. Apr 10, 2020 · 1 - Start with a 120 cm sling. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Dec 1, 2023 · Aideer Climbing is a one-man show, crafted by Olle Hjort in Stockholm Sweden. Aug 1, 2018 · Between using aid ladders and this extra rope, you should have enough room to swing around and set up your ledge. Jul 15, 2019 · The bowline can be a helpful knot for climbers to fix a rope around a tree or boulder. In aid climbing, you place protection, clip an aider to it, walk up the aider, reach up, place another piece of protection, and repeat. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. Nov 27, 2018 · The tag line can also be used to haul up any gear as needed when leading the pitch, such as that number 4 Camalot you might need up high. Pro tip - If you name your waypoints in Caltopo, such as (“climber trail junction”, “rappel” or “campsite”), these waypoint names will appear in Google Earth in your KML file. Rest on your tether. It is sensible to have them different colours as this makes tangles easier to sort out. This is simpler, cheaper, and lighter. Some people find the cord is fiddly and gets in the way. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. Here's a great technique to do just that, from expert climber Libby Sauter. but you remember that from the anchor, the rope goes over a rather sharply angled edge before drops to your partner. Every inch helps! And . Let's look at some techniques and video from pr Alpine Savvy · April 10, 2020 · · April 10, 2020 · Feb 22, 2023 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Pop the fifi, ta May 20, 2024 · We used them on aid-intensive walls, on light and fast alpine missions, and in support of big wall free climbing ascents. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. An essential webbing ladder for aid climbing. Skot sells some key gear to dial in your 2:1 hauling system , such as the perfect length of low stretch Zed cord, and a zero-stretch wire quickdraw. This aider offers a reinforced clip-in point, a full-strength grab loop, and sub-steps in the top two steps. Some wider D shaped lockers may not fit. Poop in a bag, on your ledge. (Note that in the video below, the climber does not have an aid ladder, it's just a sling that serves as a foot loop. 5 oz. com for 400+ tips like" Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Cleaning traversing bolt ladders with a 120 cm sling . Practice with i Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Advocated by IFMGA Guides Marc Chavin and Rob Coppolillo (authors of the excellent book “The Mountain Guide Manual”) this method uses the climbing rope coming off of the leader’s connection to the anchor as the primary anchor point for the follower, as opposed to the second clipping Dec 26, 2024 · This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Experienced climbers might get through the throbbing pain and frequent nausea with a mixture of cursing and laughter, but for beginners or anyone who hasn’t experienced this before, it can be a pretty Big wall: the “lower out cord” . A lightweight version of the Etrier, perfect for the mountains or in-a-day big wall missions. ) May 1, 2018 · Mechanical advantage (MA) systems are typically described with a nice, tidy number, like 2:1, 3:1, or 6:1. Also, a knife is useful for cleaning up any rat nest of old sun-crusted cord and webbing you often find at alpine anchors. A lower out cord is a #CraftyRopeTrick used in aid climbing. 4 kN (1000 lbf) 1,002 likes, 19 comments - alpinesavvy on January 5, 2022: "Cleaning traversing bolt ladders with a 120 cm sling . Here's Feb 16, 2022 · Contrary to the ladder which is often deployed and used throughout a climb, having a way to ‘put away’ your aider but still keep it accessible is great for slimming down and decluttering your harness while you move through alpine terrain but is also a great advantage to have for switching between aid and free climbing on big climbs. Nov 26, 2018 · Here’s the CORRECT way. Some people choose to use these, occasionally incorrectly, so let's learn about this gear and some of the drawbacks. But what do you do with a single /60 cm or double / 120 cm runner to shorten it up for racking? Answer: the “alpine quickdraw”. ” Here’s a second article from Climbing magazine, where they advocate doing it. Learn Alpine Savvy. A beak piton (a shortening of the broader term bird beak) is a very thin piton with a V-shaped downward hook at the end. Dec 13, 2018 · Here’s the modern way: always attach your haul bag to the anchor with a system that is releasable under load - the docking cord. Rebelays can also be useful in some climbing applications, such as big walls, instructional settings, or rescues. And the wet, cold environment in a crevasse imposes the risk of hypothermia, meaning that a rescue needs to happen quickly, even if the climber is uninjured. High Mountain Gear is from Tacoma Washington. And when you're free climbing, you have to keep them tidy and out-of-the-way, but instantly accessible to transition back to aid. A simple trick is this method, best described with a photo. Feb 20, 2020 · If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. Dec 25, 2018 · Aid climbing is confusing and clustered enough without adding anything unnecessary into the equation, so in climbing where you don’t need the hook, it’s cleaner and tidier NOT to have it always on the business end of your aider. Before progress capture pulleys were invented, this was the standard hauling method on big walls. Jan 1, 2024 · Great for aid climbing, when you often have more than one carabiner clipped to another. It lets you pull down, instead of up, which could be helpful in a vertical haul. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool. For the complete Oct 26, 2022 · This clever device works much the same as the Petzl Adjust tethers, but costs a lot less, around $12. zlcjhox xvtqa dcktr dtrhww snhuwa vjwnchsw doneu jseb kqv bpww